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The pastry has conquered every corner of the world and, from breakfast in Cape Town, to afternoon in Stockholm and the wee small hours in New Orleans, it’s a 24-hour indulgence. Here are the best places to try them.
The best beignets in New Orleans
You can taste New Orleans’ French heritage in this local speciality – a beignet (‘ben-yay’) is a golden, crumbly deep-fried choux pastry. David Gindin, general manager of The Quisby, is a fan of the late-night hangout for tourists and just-off-shift jazz musicians alike, Café du Monde. ‘Beignets, it turns out,’ he says, ‘make for wonderful post-bar food and the edge of the French Quarter at 3am is an excellent for people watching spot.’ Beignets are an all-day affair, though. Chef Nina Compton of The Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery’s restaurant Compere Lapin can be found in leafy City Park for the tiny coffee stand Morning Call. ‘It overlooks the beautiful old oaks in the park. The beignets are light and airy; be sure to add the powdered sugar.’
The best pineapple buns in Hong Kong, China
Everyone knows dim sum but there’s another little parcel of joy that has Hong Kongers queuing around the block. Bola bao (pineapple buns) are pillowy soft inside, with a crunch of sugar on top, and they’re best eaten fresh from the oven. Vivian Chau, general manager of the J Plus Hotel, likes his indulgent – the Kam Wah Café is famous for adding a slab of butter. ‘It’s an explosion of semi-melted butter mixed with soft bun and crunchy sweet top. It’s to die for!’ he says. Vinchi Chau from The Upper House says the authentic Hong Kong experience is found at Lok Heung Yuen Coffee Shop. It’s what locals call a ‘snake pit’, a tiny bakery that sells so many pineapple buns to lunching locals that there’s always a fresh tray on the counter.
The best koeksisters in Cape Town, South Africa
When Mandy Pond of The Cape View Clifton asked her team where they found the tastiest koeksisters (‘koke-sisters’) – plaited doughnuts infused with a spicy honey mix – the answers were: ‘My mum’, ‘My gran’ ‘My sister’s’. But, if you don’t have a Cape Town granny to hand, Mandy recommends Bo-Kaap Kombuis, the city’s oldest Malay restaurant. It’s set in a row of gaily painted houses and, from morning to night, draws tourists in with an aroma of fresh curries and bitter-sweet koeksisters. Chefs add their own special touches to their honey-mix – even chili sometimes – so every Cape Towner has their own favourite. Daph, the manager at B.I.G Backpackers, recommends a ‘treasure hunt’ at the Waterfront’s food market for, ‘the lady who often walks around selling the best koeksisters I have ever had.’ Now that’s dedication.
The best pastéis de nata in Lisbon, Portugal
A perfect nata is a thing of beauty – rich pastry filled with silky, caramelized-top custard. Isaac Almeida and his team at The Lisboans Apartments have done plenty of research and declare the iconic 180-year-old Pastéis de Belém as making the best tarts. What makes them stand out? The ‘filling. It’s a secret recipe’, the cinnamon topping and the bustling, tile-lined bakery that, Isaac says, ‘deserves a visit just for itself’. Taking their second place is Art Nouveau bakery Manteigaria, also a favourite of the team at The Independente Hostel & Suites.
The best kardemummabullar in Stockholm, Sweden
Kardemummabullar (cardamom rolls) are a mouthful in both senses of the word, and the best are densely braided for maximum crunch and dusted with grains of spiced sugar. Fika – relaxing over coffee and pastries – is to Swedes what aperitivo is to Italians or afternoon tea is to the Brits, so getting just the right bun is a matter of utmost importance. Therese Windesjö, manager at Residence Perseus, always heads for Under Kastanjen (‘under the chestnut tree’) where, she says, ‘Colorful old buildings together with the cobblestones and greenery of the chestnut tree makes for an absolutely charming place to have your fika.’ Alexander Bhatt, manager at Generator Stockholm, gets his dose of fika from 1920s tradition-packed cafe Vete-Katten. Anna Wickman from the Lydmar Hotel has a tip for the hungrier among you though. Saturnus is a warm, neighborhood spot where the counter groans under piles of freshly baked pastries. And Anna claims it has, ‘the biggest buns ever’.
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