Tokyo neighbourhood guide: part two

From tuna auctions followed by fresh sushi to flower festivals in ancient temples, this guide takes you through Tokyo’s diverse neighbourhoods (aka wards). Here are the highlights, according to global travellers.

Culture in Chiyoda Ward

The central Tokyo ward of Chiyoda contains the Imperial Palace. A verdant space right in the skyscraper-filled city centre, this historic, regal complex is something of an oasis. Covering an area of 280 acres, the palace grounds were once (at the apex of the 1980s Japanese property bubble) valued to be more than all of the real estate in California. The Emperor still resides here so most of the grounds are off limits for visitors but you can join a free tour organized by the Imperial Household Agency to get a glimpse of the palace’s moats, stone bridges and ancient trees. Stay at Hotel Ryumeikan Ochanomizu Honten, the highest-rated accommodation in Chiyoda.

The Fish Market in Chūō Ward

Home to the world’s largest and busiest fish market, Tsukiji Fish Market, Chūō is definitely worth a visit. Particularly as this famous trading centre is gearing up to close and relocate to the Toyosu waterfront district in October 2018 – so hurry if you want to experience it in its current manifestation. Go at 5am to watch the tuna auctions, to which only 120 people are admitted per day, and watch the process of enormous, frozen tuna being inspected with torches by prospective buyers. Then finish your morning with an obligatory fresh sushi breakfast nearby. Stay at Hotel Ann Tsukiji, a 5-minute walk from the fish market, so that the early morning wake up isn’t such a struggle.

Temples in Adachi Ward

Located in the northeastern part of Tokyo, Adachi is a downtown ward that’s a half-hour train ride from the heart of the city and is known for its warm atmosphere. Come in July and you can mingle with locals at the Adachi Firework Festival, a celebration that’s been happening for over a hundred years now. At New Year, join the throngs who’ve travelled far and wide to pray at Nishiarai Daishi; this Buddhist shrine forms one of the Three Great Temples in the Kantō region, and also hosts a flower festival each spring when its peony garden and wisteria are in full bloom. Check into Emblem Hostel Nishiarai, an accommodation that organises events and workshops where you can interact with locals in Adachi Ward, partaking in sushi-making, tea courses, ikebana (flower arranging) and hot spring tours.

Sightseeing in Bunkyō Ward

Sightseeing in Bunkyō is a serene activity, going from sculpted gardens and parks to ancient temples. An easy itinerary would be to start at the University of Tokyo (five minutes’ walk from Bunkyō’s Todai-mae Station), with its own botanic gardens containing medicinal herbs, lily pad ponds and rare tree species. Then visit the Yushima Tenmangu Shrine – not far from the university – and write a wish on one of the ‘ema’ (small wooden plaques). The last stop is Koishikawa Korakuen Garden, one of the oldest and best-preserved parks in Tokyo. Here, you’ll see wooded hills, wildlife and winding paths laid out in the 17th century during the Edo period. Many of the suites at Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo look out onto the property’s own Japanese garden.

Disneyland in Edogawa Ward

Edogawa is the best ward to stay in to visit Tokyo Disneyland, the first Disney park to be opened outside the USA (in 1983) and currently the third most-visited theme park in the world. And from April 2018 through to March 2019, the park’s 35th anniversary will be celebrated with special parades and spectacular shows. Sleep in traditional Japanese accommodation with tatami floors, futon bedding and shoji paper screens at Ryokan Fuji in Edogawa.

City walks in Kōtō Ward

Kōtō is super walkable, with numerous expansive parks, Japanese gardens and a waterfront landscape of skyscrapers, suspension bridge and calm stretch of sea. Stroll local shopping street, Sunamachi Ginza, for retro-feeling knick knack shops and delis selling fresh tempura and yakitori – many of the shops here hold a special sale event on the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month called ‘baka-ne-ichi’ (foolishly-cheap sale). There’s also the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo, and Fukagawa Fudodo, a temple where you can watch religious practices like ‘Goma’ (fire rituals) daily, with monks chants, beat drums and offer flames on the altar. Check into The Share Hotels Lyuro Tokyo Kiyosumi for views of the SkyTree Tower and a large terrace on the edge of Sumida River.

Read part one here.