The hidden world of the Stockholm archipelago

Stockholm is seductive enough as it is but it’s the surrounding archipelago – called the ‘skärgården’ by locals – that delivers a raw, untamed Scandinavian beauty. Made up of 30,000 islands, it’s one of the world’s biggest archipelagos and, arguably, the most beautiful. Only a short ferry ride from the Swedish capital, these quiet isles are awash with unblemished nature and maritime scenery, for a trip into an altogether secret world.

Sandhamn

Known as Sandy Harbour, Sandhamn can be found towards the archipelago’s easterly perimeter and has all the makings of a quintessential Swedish summer getaway. Conveniently, it’s only an hour’s boat ride from Stockholm yet couldn’t feel further from city life, with curling crescents of sand, wooden villas peeping over picket fences and views of the wild Baltic Sea. In response to island-seeking Stockholmers flocking to its shores, it has spruced itself up somewhat but there’s still an authentic, unfussy air about the place. As you wander the island’s ambling paths, you’ll pass quiet fisherman’s huts, fish smokeries and fishermen themselves lining the shore, either in boats bobbing gently in the harbour or ferrying passengers to the rest of the archipelago. To taste some of the island’s freshest catches, head to the Seglarhotell. Housed in a building that’s a typical example of toytown-esque Scandinavian cottages, it’s the place to go to enjoy a meal of herring and lingonberry while you gaze out onto the harbour. Later, meander back to Missionshuset B&B for the night.

Fjärderholmarna

The ‘Feather islands’ are a collection of islands that are as lovely a place to look at as the name suggests. Only a 20-minute boat ride from Stockholm, they’re some of the easiest islands of the archipelago to reach. Fringed with red wooden buildings, it was traditionally the place where seafarers would enjoy a raucous last night on land before setting sail, though has become more downtempo these days. Head to restaurant Röda Villan for helpings of crayfish salad and a beer out on the terrace. Fjäderholmarnas Bryggeri AB meanwhile is the island’s principal drinking den, where you can grab a locally brewed craft beer to take with you on the boardwalk as you relish the sumptuous sea views. Just across the water is the boutique Hotel J, which is a little slice of maritime New England in Stockholm’s harbour.

Grinda

Just over an hour’s ferry ride from Stockholm, Grinda is surprising. At first glance, it’s yet another graceful island of wrinkled forests, a thriving wildlife population and architecture that consists of grand chalets perched on grassy mounds and smaller cabins shyly tucked away in wooded enclaves. However, every year in June, DJs set up their decks in the island’s meadows for an atmospheric daytime party dubbed Island Vibes. Those visiting the island in summer should bring a picnic basket and enjoy a day out touring the many rugged bathing spots and taking plenty of cooling dips along the way. You can either camp here, take one of the last ferries back to Stockholm, or head to the fortress island of Vaxholm and this rustic bed & breakfast.

Utö

One of the archipelago’s largest islands, Utö is primed for the active traveller. Its network of pathways make it ideal for cycling, and it only takes one hour to get from one end to the other by bike; rent one and cycle through wooded enclaves past solitary homes and coves. At some point, you’ll stumble upon Utö’s 18th-century windmill – it’s worth climbing to the top for views of the island. Kayaking here is an equally lovely way to explore, allowing you to to revel in the silence of the island as you glide out across the water. After a day out, follow the scent of freshly baked bread to Utö Bakery and pick up a loaf or a pastry for the ferry ride towards Stockholm – break up the trip by stopping in the town of Nynäshamn and spending the night at Skärgårdshotellet en route.

Möja

About an hour by boat from Stockholm, Möja is one of the archipelago’s most relaxed and pretty islands, its coast marked by huddles of red cabins backed by rippling woods, while sailboats float in Möja’s harbour. Make the most of the island by renting a bike and following paths that snake past strawberry farms and golden fields. As with any of the islands, wild swimming is a way of life here, so paddling through the blue-grey waters is a must. Möja is larger than many of its sister islands, so there’s a handful of choices when it comes to food, too; Wikströms Fisk is a family-run restaurant that’s an institution in these parts, plating up freshly caught anchovy, pan-fried herring and cod with steaming potatoes, white wine sauce and melted butter. After a lunch here, head to Ostholmen island and the sauna there, where you can bathe in the quiet under a bright summer night’s sky. Ferry back to Stockholm or spend the night at this poolside home on neighbouring Djurhamn island.