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For aromatic pine forests and sandy coves that feel reminiscent of the French Riviera in its heyday, head to the islands off the Côte d’Azur.
Here are five of the most beautiful – from pocket-sized, privately-owned islands (still open to the public) to archipelagos inhabited by Cistercian monks who have lived there since the 5th century.
Îles d’Hyères
A protected national park, Îles d’Hyères represents the halcyon days of the French Riviera
Visiting the unspoilt Îles d’Hyères is like being instantly transported back in time to the halcyon days of the French Riviera. Protected as a national park, it’s a car-free archipelago made up of pine forest, seaside cliffs, and deserted, sandy, crescent-shaped beaches lapped by aquamarine water. In-the-know holidayers tend to head to the prettiest islands of Porquerolles (the largest) and Port-Cros (the smallest), in part because the third island (Île du Levant) is a nudist colony, so a little more niche. Hike to popular beaches like Plage Notre-Dame on Porquerolles, or discover quieter coves by exploring further afield, via narrow, dusty paths carpeted in pine needles. Take a picnic of fresh produce bought in the island’s port, and feast away beneath peach and fig trees heaving with sun-ripened fruit, all the while being serenaded by singing crickets. The ferry to the islands from Hyères departs regularly and takes twenty minutes. Stay on the Île de Porquerolles at the highly rated, peach-coloured Hotel Residence Les Medes.
Îles de Lérins
Visit Île Saint-Honorat for lunch at the Abbaye de Lérins, an ancient Cistercian monastery
An easy day trip by ferry from Cannes, the Îles de Lérins consist of two main islands – the larger Île Sainte-Marguerite and the miniature Île Saint-Honorat. Visit the latter for a gourmet lunch at the Abbaye de Lérins, where a small order of 20 Cistercian monks have lived since the 5th century, now producing their own honey and award-winning wine. The former is crisscrossed with walking trails weaving through eucalyptus and olive groves, and is home to the 17th-century Fort Royal, a remote former prison. There is no accommodation on either island, and camping is forbidden, so after a day of swimming on secluded beaches you’ll have to hop back on the ferry for the 20 minute-ride back to the Riviera. Disembark and spend the night at the Loft de Cannes B&B, where the wooden sun deck is kitted out with deck chairs and potted plants.
Île des Embiez
Rent a kayak or pedalo, or snorkel in the blissfully-clear waters of Île des Embiez
Though this island is privately owned, visitors are welcome to take a day trip (via a 15-minute ferry from the port of Le Brusc) and explore its tiny sandy coves, clifftops and harbour packed with pretty sailboats; you can even hire one to circumnavigate the island, anchoring in peaceful spots. On one of the island’s more popular beaches, Salins, you can also rent kayaks and pedalos, or snorkel in its blissfully-clear waters. Check into the eclectically-decorated Le Sitel, an apartment in the centre of Brusc.
Île de Bendor
Boxy, pastel-painted houses line the water’s edge in the artists’ village on Île de Bendor
In 1950, this pocket-sized island (with one sheep as its sole inhabitant) was bought by industrialist, Paul Ricard, and transformed into an art-oriented Mediterranean community. Boxy, pastel-painted houses line the water’s edge in the artists’ village, where houses originally built for Ricard’s creative friends now house workshops for artisans producing and selling blown glass, jewellery, ceramics and Provençal woven baskets. There’s also an art gallery, two museums, a collection of boutiques, and a sculpture-filled art garden next to the sea. At the end of a culture-filled day, relax over a game of pétanque (similar to boules) and then a glass of dry rosé on the patio of one of the island’s waterside cafés. Or visit the Hotel Delos for a drink in its bar, adorned with patterned tiles, wicker furniture and tropical plants, before checking into a suite with ocean views.
Île du Grand Rouveau
With no buildings bar a lighthouse, Île du Grand Rouveau is a place for simple pleasures
For more intrepid travellers, the uninhabited Île du Grand Rouveau is the easternmost island of the Embiez archipelago and makes for an exciting Riviera island adventure. With nothing but a lighthouse built upon its rocky surface, it’s a place for simple pleasures – spend the day jumping off the small pontoon for a swim, hiking to heavenly creeks, or having a picnic upon the rocks. The lighthouse and its adjoining terrace make a great picnic spot with a panoramic view of the Côte d’Azur. Stay on the archipelago’s main island, Île des Embiez, at the highly rated Hotel Helios.
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