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Beer gardens have reverential status in Germany. Originating in Bavaria, beer gardens – biergartens – grew from the need for shaded areas that would keep the beer cellars below them cool. The custom of drinking beer outdoors soon grew in popularity and thus the beer gardens were born.
These days not much has changed, and when the sun comes out, you’ll find flocks of locals congregating in the sunshine with hefty glass tankards in hand and sizeable portions of hearty German food. If you’re looking to join in, our edit of the country’s beer gardens will help steer you in the right direction.
Prater Garten, Berlin
Prater Garten is located in a wooded enclave, perfect for a drink in the shade
Berlin summers have legendary appeal and Prater Garten (or Prater) is the spot to make the most of those long, hazy days. Holding the title of Berlin’s oldest biergarten, this Prenzlauer Berg institution has undergone some drastic changes since its opening in 1837. Once primarily a place for Berliners to come and watch pantomime, opera and other performance pieces, Prater has endured endless rosters of owners and periods of downturn to get to where it is today. Now widely considered to be an integral part of the neighbourhood, tourists and locals alike can be found huddled on one of its approximately 700 seats, with frothing tankards of beer in front of them. Prater looks the part too; located in a pretty wooded enclave, strings of festoon lights are slung low over pinstriped parasols and contented beer drinkers. Open April through September, stay nearby at modish Linnen.
Augustiner Keller, Munich
Augstiner Keller is a popular haunt for both locals and visitors to Munich
Clocking up 180 beer gardens across town, knowing where to begin is a daunting task for even the most seasoned beer drinker, however, Augustine Keller is an excellent choice every time. A haunt for newcomers to the city and old hands, this old school Bavarian beer hall and garden is one of Munich’s oldest drinking dens. Back in the day, an ox was used to haul beer up from the basement – though these days that method has since been replaced with machines, despite its popularity with guests. As for the beer itself, it’s the local Augustiner brew on tap, so grab yourself a stein of this and head out onto the terrace, where chestnut trees form dense emerald canopies overhead. Expect the day to drift by as you tuck into pepper schnitzel with spaetzle or homemade potato salad. A lie down is essential after this – Rocco Forte is an elegant and conveniently close choice.
Zur Sonne, Frankfurt
Make sure to try the Apfelwein, only found in this area of Germany
First opened in 1768, Zur Sonne is a picture of German heritage. This half-timbered building with a leafy beer garden has an enduring draw to visitors. It’s the place to sample a selection of local Frankfurt beers, but do pay mind to the Apfelwein, which is a tart cider only found in the area. While you’re on the traditional track, be sure to try a pretzel from one of the bretzelbuben – pretzel pedlars who started their business at a time when the beer gardens offered no food. Munching on one of these while watching locals pop by for a swift drink and chat, makes for a convivial atmosphere and one worth savouring for as long as you can. When it’s time to call it a day, retreat back to The Flag.
Feierling, Freiburg
Expect steins frothing with Inselhopf, a beer brewed on site
The oldest beer garden in Freiburg, it’s still the city’s premier spot for those in search of beer and views. Feierling’s shaded square is a restful oasis in the late summer sun. And while it’s split over two levels with a capacity for up to 700 people, afternoons and evenings spent here always seem to feel quiet and ambient. Tables are laden heavy with the Inselhopf beer brewed on site, a refreshing and light number that’s an ideal antidote to any warmer days. And don’t miss out on the food here too – crispy schnitzel with freshly baked bread or spaetzle with cream sauce are a few of the options to quell any hunger pangs. Tuck in, drink up and eventually make your way to the traditional Hotel Oberkirch.
Chinesischer Turm, Munich
This towering wooden pagoda has become a symbol of the city
Not Munich’s largest, but certainly no less deserving of your attention, Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower) is a glittering expanse of 7,000 seats. A regular feature in Munich’s guidebooks, don’t dismiss this beer garden as merely one for the tourists – it’s popular for a reason. Located in the Englischer Garten – one of the world’s largest urban parks – this biergarten can be found skirting the base of the towering Chinesischer Turm, a wooden pagoda that’s become a symbol of the area. Here, grab yourself a spot on the sprawl of benches, take a long drink of your stein of Hofbräu and take in the quiet magic of your surroundings. Hang around until sundown, when lanterns light up the pagoda like a grand, illuminated wedding cake. After that, stay at Hotel Splendid Dollmann, which will keep some of that magic going.
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