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Nigiri, maki, temaki, uramaki and sashimi – the sushi options in Japan are simply endless. For those on a quest for the very best sushi out there, these are the cities to head to.
Tokyo, Tokyo
Try sea urchin sashimi with wasabi when in Tokyo
Tokyo has a reputation for a world-class gastronomy and there are some serious sushi eats to be found here. Sushi shops range from high-end to budget, but always with a finesse that makes eating in Tokyo a peerless experience. While the former Tsukiji market was often where visitors gravitated to in the city, it’s the Ginza area that is home to some of Tokyo’s premier sushi shops. Sushi Ishiyama can be found on the 4th floor of the Morita building in Ginza, run by chef Takao Ishiyama, who wields a knife so elegantly and dexterously as he slices and serves plate after plate of otherworldly sushi that there’s a hypnotic pull to the whole process – the restaurant only has 12 seats and is clad in light wood with white seats, and it’s about as authentic a Japanese culinary experience as you’ll ever get. Here, fresh sea urchin from Hokkaido is up for grabs followed by salmon roe zested with yuzu citrus. You can also head to nearby Sushi Take, run by one of Tokyo’s few female chefs. If you’re travelling with a group or the family, a Kaiten-zushi (conveyor belt sushi) option might appeal more – Uobei Shibuya Dogenzaka in Shibuya is a perennial favourite where you order from a touch screen and sushi glides to your seat. Once you’ve satisfied any hunger pangs, walk back to Trunk Hotel in nearby Jingumae.
Kanazawa, Ishikawa
Kaisendon is like open sushi – where seaweed, seafood and rice are layered
A historic centre of Japan, home to exquisitely preserved samurai and geisha districts, Kanazawa is also the destination for sushi-lovers in the know. Located in the coastal Hokuriku region, its access to the sea makes it a excellent place for seafood, where wild prawns, snow crab and Nodoguro (the black throat fish) are just a few of the day’s catches. For freshly-plated and rolled sushi, start at Omicho Market – Kanazawa largest fish market. Mori Mori Sushi Omicho is one of the more accessible options, with an English menu option, while nearby Yamasan Sushi Honten is worth heading to for breakfast in order to avoid the queues. Try the kaisendon (seafood bowls with rice) here, where fatty tuna, salmon, and octopus sashimi are a few of the ingredients that make up this kaleidoscopic medley. For a slightly more intimate and romantic setting, Sushi Takashima in the traditional Chaya District is an ideal stop where the chef will happily chat away while he cuts thin slices of tuna sashimi for you. End the night with a stroll through the hushed streets of Higashi Chaya and the kimusuko-style houses, where geishas flit past the windows illuminated by the lanterns outside, before reaching the restful Emblem Stay Kanazawa.
Fukuoka, Fukuoka
Sushi chefs are revered for their craft and expertise
The capital of sun-drenched, tropical Kyūshū island, Fukuoka is a lesser-known hub for sushi where Michelin-starred restaurants mingle with yatai street vendors. Located on Hakata Bay, it’s a city tied to the sea – Kyūshū is home to over 300 edible marine species that reach Fukuoka’s Nagahama Fish Market daily. Trying the Kyūshū-mae sushi is essential then; unlike Tokyo style (Edo-mae) sushi, in Fukuoka, sushi is served with salt and a type bitter citrus rather than soy sauce. It also uses a much fresher form of tuna for a unique taste. Head to Tenzushi for an intimate experience that is sushi-making at its finest – parboiled squid is adorned with amber roe, sea urchin and sesame seeds, for a look that’s more treasure chest than taste-tingler. Elsewhere, it’s worth noting that sushi here broadly comes in at a fraction of the price of its Tokyo counterparts, so don’t overlook local institutions like Hyotan and Chikae Fukuoka – you can even try the infamous Fugu sashimi at the latter. Once you’ve dared and indulged, A Good Day Fukuoka Riverside aparthotel is a good choice for the night.
Hakodate, Hokkaido
Watch fatty salmon be sliced and plated up right in front of you
Forested and snowy Hokkaido has a prolific reputation for its natural scenery as well as its seafood – and the port town of Hakodate is one of the best places to gorge on the region’s unmissable sushi. The morning market in Hakodate is an essential stop where you’ll find a selection of sushi restaurants plating up the various catches of the day. For those a little more daring, head to one stall in particular where you’ll be able to catch your own squid from a tank, before it’s prepared and plated by a chef in delectable sashimi form. Beyond the market, there’s endless sushi shops to choose from but Kantaro is the one to make time for. Squid and tuna are considered Hakodate’s best seafood options, so expect to indulge in plates filled with fatty tuna and subtle squid nigiri, as you take in the restaurant’s panoramic ocean views. Keep those ocean views going when you stay at Wakamatsu Hot Spring Resort.
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