Istanbul’s history: the Fener-Balat walking trail

Walking through the Fener and Balat quarters of Istanbul will take you past children playing next to historic sights, under laundry lines strung between the buildings and into a microcosm of cosmopolitan Istanbul.

A little further north of the famous Golden Horn, Fener and Balat have been home to Orthodox Christian and Jewish communities for centuries and it’s well worth taking the time to find out what makes Fener and Balat a genuine Istanbul experience.

Balat

Bulgarian St. Stephen Church

Start your walk along Balat’s coast by visiting the newly renovated Bulgarian St. Stephen Church. This house of worship was built for the Bulgarian Orthodox community and it was constructed from cast-iron parts, leading to a nickname of the Iron Church. You can see Neo-Gothic and Neo-Baroque influences in its architecture and admire details on its opulent altar.

Vodina Street

After the Iron Church, walk north to reach Vodina Street. You are now in the centre of Balat, a quarter known for its Jewish community since the Byzantine era. Go on a walk exploring the local eateries and cafés or grab a poğaça (bun filled with cheese, mashed potato or ground meat) from one of the neighbourhood bakeries. If you end up here in the afternoon, you might stumble on a mezat – a casual auction where you can grab antique curiosities at bargain prices.

Ahrida Synagogue

While around the neighbourhood, you might want to visit the Balat Ahrida Synagogue built in the 15th century. The synagogue’s reading platform resembles the prow of a ship and pays homage to the migration of the Sephardic Jewish community from Spain. If you are planning a visit, you need to get a permission from the Chief Rabbinate beforehand.

Merdivenli Yokus

Merdivenli Yokus might look familiar if you’ve ever seen posts about Istanbul online. Lined with old houses of varying colours standing next to each other on a steep street, this place is quintessentially Istanbul. Avoid the crowds by visiting on a weekday and take photos to level up your Instagram game.

Fener

Phanar Greek Orthodox College

After your visit to Balat, move south following the winding streets to the Fener quarter. Built in 1881 as a religious school for the Orthodox community, Phanar Greek Orthodox College stands on the highest hill of Fener and towers over the Golden Horn. It’s impossible to get a closer look at the details of its blood‐red façade and not envy the students attending this school.

St. George’s Cathedral

The last stop in Fener makes this quarter a central point for the Eastern Orthodox community: St. George’s Cathedral. Housed within a complex, this church became the headquarters of the Ecumenical Patriarchate after it was moved from the Hagia Sophia. Walk in to examine the meticulous artisanal work done on the gold plated altar. And if you are lucky, you might find a ceremony taking place.

Those travellers who still have some energy left can explore the Church of Saint Mary of the Mongols, the old houses on Kiremit Caddesi and Usturumca Sokak and Chora Museum with Muslim and Christian artworks.

If you are looking for a pick-me-up, you won’t go wrong by visiting one of the many cafés located on Vodina Street. You can also try Smelt&Co, Coffee Department and Cook Life to get a taste of the recent trendy spots of Fener-Balat.

Hotel Miniature in Sultanahmet is an ideal base for exploring Fener-Balat and other historical sights located in the Fatih district. You can stay in rooms with exposed brick walls and high ceilings in a 19th-century building.