How to Use a Hair Diffuser to Get the Best Waves of Your Life

The hair diffuser—you know, that bowl-looking thing gathering dust at the bottom of the blow-dryer box—is making a comeback. You might remember the tool from the ‘80s. It was an essential part of getting that super teased halo of curls. Now it’s more about boosting the natural texture you were born with. If you have wavy to kinky strands, a diffuser is useful to have around, meaning you should probably excavate it from the deepest reaches of the bathroom cabinet.

A diffuser is a favorite of celebrity stylist Jen Atkin, who is known for her ability to create beach-goddess hair. You’ve probably seen her work on the Kardashians and Hadids. “Instead of blow-drying your hair straight and using your curling iron to get that wave, you enhance your own natural bend first and add upon the wave you naturally have. It’s so much faster,” Atkin tells SELF.

She says the trick works for all kinds of hair that has at least some natural texture. If your waves are more wet noodle than S-shaped, you can fake it with the help of this blow-dryer attachment. The diffuser also helps dry Afro hair fast, in order to eliminate shrinkage. Atkin gave us her best diffuser tips, and then we tested her advice step by step.

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  Leave your curls alone as much as possible.

  Before you even pick up the diffuser, there are a few keys to maintaining your curl pattern. Don’t do too much brushing and combing. If you have bad knots, use a wide-tooth comb to detangle. Also, avoid rubbing your hair with a terry towel, which creates static and frizz; instead, pull wet hair into a microfiber turban and leave it alone. Do your makeup first, so your hair isn’t soaking wet at the start.

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  Use a mousse to tame frizz, or a wave spray to add volume.

  Apply a wave-making product like a mousse (best for curls and waves) or a wave spray (for straighter hair types). If you have very thick hair, divide it into two sections, clipping away the hair from the ears to the hairline and starting in the back.

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  Cup the hair into the diffuser to lock in your natural waves.

  Put the diffuser on the end of the dryer and tilt it upward. Take a 2-inch section of hair and place it in the bowl. Twisting the hair first will give the waves more definition, especially if you have certain sections that always fall flat. Set the dryer on low or medium. Too much heat can be a wave killer. You only want to get the hair about 75 percent dry, says Atkin. “If you let it dry naturally after that, it looks so much more bouncy, especially when you’re getting that natural wave or curls.”

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  Add volume at the crown using the diffuser nubs.

  If you want to create more volume, use the diffuser right at the crown. Most have nubs that you can use to massage the scalp and add height.

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  Fine-tune the ends with a round brush.

  The key to effortless-looking waves is straight ends. So Atkin recommends swapping out the diffuser attachment for the concentrator nozzle to get the ends sleek. Use a comb or round brush to give the ends extra attention.

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  Apply an oil for shine and frizz control.

  As a final step, apply an oil or finishing serum for shine, but avoid the roots, so you don’t undo all that volumizing work. “Always start underneath in the back for most of the product,” Atkin says, to make sure you don’t end up with limp and greasy strands around the face. “Whatever’s left over you can scrunch if you’re doing a curly look; or if you’re doing a disheveled style, rake through it with your palms.”