How to Install Artificial Grass

If installed correctly, artificial grass does not require routine maintenance, instead you only need to spray it occasionally to keep it clean. The installation itself is quite stressful, especially with large lawns, so it’s a good idea to ask some healthy friends to help.

Table of Contents

Preparing the ground to install the lawn

{“smallUrl”:”https://www.wikihow.com/images_en/thumb/2/22/Install-a-Drip-Irrigation-System-Step-1-Version-2.jpg/v4-460px-Install- a-Drip-Irrigation-System-Step-1-Version-2.jpg”,”bigUrl”:”https://www.wikihow.com/images/thumb/2/22/Install-a-Drip-Irrigation- System-Step-1-Version-2.jpg/v4-728px-Install-a-Drip-Irrigation-System-Step-1-Version-2.jpg”,”smallWidth”:460,”smallHeight”:259,” bigWidth”:728,”bigHeight”:410,”licensing”:”<div class=”mw-parser-output”></div>”}

Spray weed killer. To treat existing weeds in the construction site, spray herbicides or similar products to kill all weeds in the area. Spray at least two weeks before the start of the project to give it time to take effect and kill all weeds. This is to make sure all the plants are dead to the roots.

Remove topsoil. If you install grass on the ground, 7.5-10 centimeters of topsoil must be excavated to create space for artificial grass. You can use a soil mill to excavate and break up the topsoil. Remove all existing plants and weeds, or they will leave the surface uneven after death. ^{[1] X Research Source}

If the soil is wet, wait a few days until the soil is dry before starting to dig to avoid slumping. ^{[2] X Research Source}
After digging, although the surface doesn’t have to be perfectly flat, it’s a good idea to walk on it or use a hand compactor to compact the loose soil. The ground should have a slight slope to increase drainage.

Drainage design. Installation on well-drained soil does not present many drainage problems, as the artificial turf allows water to seep through, and the underlying aggregate (described below) also has good drainage. If you are placing artificial grass on poorly drained soil or a hard surface such as concrete, the following must be observed:

If there is no drain near the lawn, you must install a drainage system before proceeding.
If the area usually only receives light rain, you can leave small drainage holes 15cm apart around the perimeter. ^{[3] X Research Sources}

Install the envelope. Install a waterproof boundary around the perimeter of the yard if one is not available, to keep the lawn from shrinking or separating over time. Using elastic plastic board is an effective choice.

If you prefer a more scaled solution, you can pour concrete ledges around the area.
Make sure the contour does not protrude beyond the grass to avoid impeding drainage.

Lined with weed-resistant fabric (optional). If you are afraid of weeds growing through the artificial turf, add a layer of geotextile at the bottom of the newly dug area. ^{[4] X Research Source} This fabric will also prevent rats and earthworms from digging through the artificial turf.

Remember that geotextiles are weed resistant fabrics that are tightly woven and fairly thick. You can purchase geotextiles from an artificial turf supplier, a gardening center, or a landscaping and irrigation supply business. Geotextiles are not like the weed-resistant fabrics you can buy from a home improvement store.
Instead, you can line this fabric over the base aggregate.
If you have a problem with rodents, install a rodent net.
Contact a pest and rodent control company for assistance in eliminating them. If left unchecked, they will damage your artificial turf.

Prepare the background

Lining background material. Buy crushed stone, gravel, or weathered granite with a grain size of less than 10 mm. Pour a layer of material about 7.5 – 10 cm into the excavated area to prevent grass slump and improve drainage.

You need about 0.8 cubic meters of material for every 10 square meters of lawn. ^{[5] X Research Sources} Product-specific information will give you a more accurate estimate.
If you need to install the lawn on a concrete or other hard surface, you can use a shock-absorbing rubber pad or self-leveling composite material. ^{[6] X Research Source}^{[7] X Research Source} Or, you can skip this step if you are sure that the concrete has the right slope for drainage, and you can cover the artificial grass completely. concrete edge.
If there are children playing on the artificial turf field, it is recommended that you put a shock absorber pad for safety reasons.

Leveling the background. Leveling the substrate with specialized scraping equipment. Use a bubbler, a leveling wire and a ruler to create a slope of about 2-3% (0.5-1m height difference over 30m), sloping towards the drainage system or contour. ^{[8] X Research Sources}

Wet and compact the substrate. Use a sprinkler to water the gravel or sand (don’t over-water) to lubricate the aggregates before compacting. Use disc, roller or hand compactors to compact the base material, reducing the layer thickness to 90% of the original depth or less (approximately 7.5 mm reduction). ^{[9] X Research Source} That means you will have to traverse the area many times. You will move in different directions and overlap after each compaction for the best effect.

Vibrating disc compaction is the most effective option for compressing the base material. ^{[10] X Research Source}
You can rent these tools outside the store. If you want to buy, you should choose a sleeveless dress because it is the cheapest.

Spread out the grass in the surrounding area while waiting for the floor to dry. Lay out the grass somewhere beside the yard because it takes hours for it to recover after a while being rolled up for shipping. Wait until the substrate is dry, then check to make sure it is flat and hard before continuing.

If the ground is not even, you need to compact more.
If the substrate is lower than expected, you may need to add an extra layer and compact it, to ensure a relatively flat contact between the artificial turf and surrounding surfaces.

Install the lawn

Spread the grass. Measure the surface area to be carpeted, and the length and width of the rugs. Together with another person, you will stretch each rug and place it on a prepared surface. Avoid dragging the grass on the ground so as not to disturb the leveled ground. ^{[11] X Research Source}

For artificial grass, the grass leaves will curve to one side. Be sure to install all rugs so that the leaves are curled to one side, or the lawn will look unnatural.

Cut the lawn as needed. Use carpet scissors or a multi-purpose knife to cut the underside of the carpet to the shape of the court surface. ^{[12] X Research Source}

When you have to cut a long line, you should cut each short piece each time and compare it with the edge of the carpet to make sure there are no large deviations. Using a marker to draw the line to be cut on the underside of the carpet will help you cut more accurately.

Purchase a carpet tensioner (optional). For best results, you should use a special tool to stretch the mats before connecting them, do the following: lay the tool flat on the grass with the hairy side down, and use your knees push hard on the push rod head. Stretching will help eliminate wrinkles, reduce thermal expansion, and keep the carpet firmly attached to the ground. ^{[13] X Research Source}

This tool is also known as a carpet jack.

Connect the rugs together. There are many ways to connect two rugs together. The product of the company that sells you the lawn can provide the best results because it is designed for that type of lawn. These are the most common concatenation methods:

Place two rugs next to each other, fold the edges of the rugs upside down, and spread the connecting material over the exposed ground. Apply glue (sold with the product) onto the bonding material, then fold the mat edges back to cover the splicing material and allow it to dry. ^{[14] X Research Source} Use only the glue recommended by the manufacturer.
Alternatively, place a piece of high-strength outdoor tape or tape on the ground, then place the edges of two rugs on it. ^{[15] X Research Source}
Or, connect the mats with nails, each about 7.5 cm apart.

Fixed perimeter lawn. Use 10-15 cm long galvanized nails or specialized anchor pins to keep the perimeter of the lawn fixed, the distance between the nails or anchor pins is 15 cm. Use a hammer to drive the nail close to the ground but avoid driving too hard to create a rut in the grass. ^{[16] X Research Source}

To create a strong hold, you need to drive the nail in the wrong position on opposite edges, instead of driving two rows of nails that are completely opposite each other. ^{[17] X Research Source}

Spread the filling material or ballast that is suitable for your lawn. Most types of artificial turf require the addition of a sealant to hold the leaves up, press down on the grass and create a cushion for sports activities. When the lawn is completely dry, use a hand or machine to spread a thin layer of material (one of the materials mentioned above). Rake to level the layer of material just spread. Repeat until approximately half of the blade length is filled. ^{[18] X Research Source} For best results, use the type and weight of material specified by the manufacturer. There are the following popular options:

Washed silica sand is used as ballast to press down the grass. If the lawn requires the use of a sealant, sand alone may not be enough.
Shredded rubber will provide the best cushioning and help the leaves stand up. Shredded rubber can be a mess if the lawn is installed on a slope, or when pets defecate on it.
Copper slag absorbs odors from pet waste better than other options. ^{[19] X Research Source}
Some solid products do not require additional fillings. Experts still recommend adding more fillings for stability, although this is a controversial topic.

Brush the lawn after each filling. After each filling, use an electric broom to “comb” the grass and leaves. If you don’t have an electric broom, use a stiff nylon broom or carpet rake.

Water the lawn. The water will help the filling or ballast to compress. Check back the next day to see the final result. If the lawn does not have a good bounce or leaves too much exposed, you can add another layer of filling material.

At your option, use a leaf blower to clean the sand from the surface of the lawn once it’s done.

Things you need

Gravel, crushed stone, sand or aggregate
Shovel
Grass rake
Faucet for watering plants
Disc compactor, roller compactor or sleeveless compactor (can be rented from a tool rental store)
Artificial turf
Connecting material sheet, tape and/or outdoor adhesive
Galvanized nails or anchor pins
Elastic plastic board (unless contoured)
Filling material or ballast
Electric broom or broom with stiff nylon bristles
Carpet tensioner (recommended)
Rodent netting (if needed)
Anti-weed fabric (optional).
Level ruler and balance wire
Nivo water bubbles

Advice

If you need to install turf on very soft or eroding ground, you can level and compact a large layer of rock, approximately 2 cm in diameter, and then add a layer of smaller-grained material on top. as instructed. Do not use stones with a grain size that is too large as it can tear or pierce the grass.

Warning

Be careful not to break the irrigation pipe while digging for the lawn. If you are using a drip line, use a stopper or clamp to cut off the water line running along the length of the lawn.
Install the lawn away from cooking areas, smoking areas, and other heat sources to avoid burning the grass. ^{[20] X Research Sources}
The chlorine in the pool can tarnish the artificial turf. You should not install the lawn within 1 meter of the pool. ^{[21] X Research Source}

Steps