Fall in love with Beirut

Lebanon’s capital really has to be seen to be appreciated; it’s a chaotic juxtaposition of old and new that will instantly woo you. Visit Hamra Street, a place that attracted some of the Middle East’s great writers, poets and artists, dine on dishes whisked up by incredible Lebanese chefs and finish it off with a night out on the town. A first visit to Beirut is rarely the last.

Here are the things that the Lebanese capital is most recommended for, according to global travellers.

Scenery

The cityscape of Beirut is beautiful in itself. Jutting out from the Lebanese coast and surrounded by deep blue Mediterranean sea, it’s also a maze of winding streets and green hills, with spires of churches, mosques and palaces punctuating the skyline. If you fancy venturing out of the city, the Chouf mountains are hikable in a day trip and you can also ski and snowboard the slopes in winter. And the Jeita Grotto is a system of two interconnected karstic limestone caves spanning nearly 9km and full of beautiful stalagmites and stalactites. Stay at the Bayview Hotel Beirut, whose rooftop restaurant and bar has panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea.

Beach walks

Beirut’s seaside promenade, known as the Corniche, is a dreamy place for a sunset stroll. Watch locals practise skating, biking, yoga – you name it – and some climbing down to the sea to swim between the rocks. There are numerous restaurants looking out to sea and serving fresh seafood, or find yourself a street food vendor selling Foul (broad beans) with lemon or grilled corn. Just south of the Corniche, Ramlet al-Baida is Beirut’s public stretch of beach, with lots of families having picnics and couples taking a romantic stroll, it’s a great spot for people-watching. Three O Nine Hotel is a super stylish accommodation close to the Corniche.

Restaurants

It’s tempting in Beirut to do nothing but eat. There is international haute cuisine to rival New York or London’s finest, Lebanese joints with their signature smell of grilled meats, garlic and herbs wafting out, and fusion food that pulls off Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavours with aplomb. Eat at Sahyoun on Damascus street for the best traditional falafel, Bab Sharki for Syrian food, Mezyan for Palestinian and Em Nazih for cheap Lebanese (as well as live music and a fabulous atmosphere). Traditional Lebanese specialities not to miss are fatteh (a dish of toasted pita, chickpeas, yoghurt and pine nuts), za’atar salad, labneh and tabbouleh. Even the best Lebanese food you’ve had back home won’t compare in the slightest to the quality here. Stay at Le Bristol Hotel close to Downtown Beirut.

History

One of the oldest cities in the world, Beirut still has relics from the 12th-century Crusaders, Roman ruins, crumbling Byzantine mosaics, ancient mosques – essentially one of the finest archaeological collections in the world. Even its recent history is infinitely absorbing, including the Middle East’s longest-running civil war, which ended in 1991. Visit Al-Omari Mosque, bearing old stone walls, a glorious painted ceiling and other features that represent Beirut’s tumultuous past at the hands of the Byzantine and Roman Empires, the Crusaders and Mamluks. Check into the plush Saifi Suites, just around the corner from the Al-Omari Mosque.

Culture

Referred to as Beirut’s ‘Little Armenia’, the Bourj Hammoud neighbourhood is considered the creative hub of the city, with vintage shops selling up-cycled furniture, vinyl records and eccentric clothes. All over the city you’ll find art, music, shopping and nightlife that will have you hankering to return. Socialise at Riwaq, go to a warehouse party in the Badaro area and check out the nightlife in the Gemmayze and Mar Mikhaël neighborhoods. The Lebanese National Museum has just been renovated so worth a visit, too. Villa Clara is a pretty, sky-blue building in the Bourj Hammoud neighbourhood, offering highly rated, boutique hotel accommodation.