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Natural wine is the new frontier; a complex concoction of unadulterated, organic and additive-free perfection. We’ve handpicked Europe’s essential spots to try this fresh upstart of the wine world.
Septime La Cave in Paris, France
Huddle up at this low-lit drinking den in the Bastille quarter
Paris is perhaps unsurprisingly the spiritual home of natural wine and unsulphured orange wines can be found adorning the shelves of some of the city’s top bars and restaurants. Septime La Cave is just one of the many great watering holes; this charming, rustic hideout is an offshoot of what Parisians dub a ‘cave à manger’ or eating cellar. A former shoe shop, snag one of the few seats and sip on fresh, delicately fizzy wines from the Jura region or a sparkling blanc des blancs. Small plates are also available such as ricotta anchois; crusty bread, creamy cheese and salted anchovies, which embodies much of the bar’s formula – simple but effective. After you’ve established a warm buzz, townhouse La Maison Gobert is moments away.
Plateau in Brighton, United Kingdom
There’s over 20 wines by the glass to choose from at Plateau
A hub of all things young, arty and creative, Plateau is a wonderful pitstop (or all-night hangout) for those in search of natural wine. Run by two friends from France and located in the city’s south Lanes, their wine list is curated to reflect a philosophy of sustainability, ethical farming and quality. With a menu split according to flavour and over 20 wines by the glass, even novices can find something to suit. France is the grand dame of natural wines, but at Plateau you can expect to find crisp whites from Eastern Europe, orange wines from Italy and fruity reds from Greece. Pair any of these with the bar’s bites – think Pink Fir potatoes with mint butter or heritage courgette with almond and ajo blanco. Brighton Square Apartments are a nearby retreat.
Alex + Pinard in Amsterdam, The Netherlands
The staff are always ready with recommendations on what to order
Nestled in Amsterdam’s emerging Oost neighbourhood, artisanal wine bar Alex + Pinard is a welcoming and gorgeously furnished space. Chiseled marble countertops, raw wood and industrial elements play off against streamlined contemporary fittings, that combine for a chic, but never willfully so, look. And while the interior is special, it’s the seasonal wine list and menu that deserve your full attention. With a focus on pure and natural wines, the food menu gravitates towards fresh and tangy flavours. Wine is available by the glass, but ask the amicable staff for tips and you’ll be well on your way to discovering a sparkling wine from Austria or a delicately textured white from South Africa. Grab yourself a glass and a spot on the terrace underneath the dandelion-yellow awning – a perfect setting for shucking the fresh oysters on offer. End the evening on the water at the picturesque Houseboat Concordia.
Vino Underground in Tbilisi, Georgia
Vino Underground was the first natural wine bar in Tbilisi
Tbilisi is a city that’s undergone an extensive transformation this past decade, and wine is at the heart of it. Vino Underground is the very embodiment of this drastic rejuvenation; a vaulted brick cellar and the first bar in the city dedicated to natural wines, it’s owned by some of Georgia’s most prominent natural winemakers. You’ll find amber-coloured wines that are a signature of this part of the world with around 100 choices. It’s a bar with a repertoire, so work your way through the wine list, followed by an amble around the Old Town, where you can also spend the night at the wonderfully ornate Castle.
JAJA in Berlin, Germany
Located in trendy Neukölln, this is a wine lovers’ haven
For a city and country that isn’t shy about its love for beer, JAJA is a welcome respite for wine lovers. At this Neukölln drinking den there’s a focus on natural French wines, including reds from Rhône which are almost impossible to source outside of France. Visitors can expect surprises and stories (a hallmark of natural wine) too; one of the JAJA Greek wines comes from the Cyclade island of Tinos where a man at 47, decided he wanted to become a winemaker, proving it’s never too late to take on even some of the most seasoned professions. Take a sip of this floral beauty and you’ll be whisked off to the Aegean Sea. Nearby Berlin Style Apartments aren’t Mediterranean, but they are as relaxed as a villa by the ocean.
40 Maltby Street in London, United Kingdom
Choose lesser-known natural wines from Italy to Slovenia here
London rivals Paris for the title of natural wine city, and anyone who has visited 40 Maltby Street will know why. Revered by Londoners who love their wine, this bar is housed in the railway arches, just off the area’s lesser known Maltby Street Market. The wine bar itself is home to Gergovie Wines, who import labels from countries including Italy and Slovenia, all of which are natural, sans chemicals, and available to take away. A late lunch or dinner here is worth hanging around for and the ever-changing seasonal menu and wine selection are primed to compliment each other. Grab a glass of sparkling Chenin or a Slovenian orange wine and stroll down bustling Bermondsey Street to South Point Streets.
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