Breaking bread: the rise of challah

If you haven’t already tasted challah – a symbolic and special bread traditionally eaten by Jewish people on the Sabbath and other important holidays – you’re missing out. Sometimes eggy, often sweet and almost always braided, it’s versatile and delicious. Continuing our series on global bread culture, we looked into the challah’s history and where to find some of the most sumptuous loaves out there.

A brief history

Challah’s first appearance was in the Torah, as a symbolic representation of the manna (heavenly bread that fell from the sky, feeding the ancient Israelites for forty years). After the Israelites exile in the desert had ended, God decreed that whenever they made challah, they would set aside a portion of the dough in order to make more bread – as a way for the Jewish people to show their gratitude for being allowed into the Holy Land. This separated piece of dough was referred to as the challah. To this day, it still symbolises thankfulness, and the making of it heralds the beginning of the Sabbath (Shabbat).

Depending on the celebration, though, challah is prepared differently. For Rosh Hashanah (Jewish New Year), round loaves are baked and eaten with honey to symbolise continuity and a sweet year. While for Yom Kippur (the Holy Day of Atonement), ladder-shaped breads are served before the meal to suggest high hopes for the months ahead. The most popular variation, however, is the braided kind, where intertwined strands of dough are meant to symbolise unity, and the 12 humps so distinct to the challah loaf represent 12 loaves for the 12 tribes of Israel.

The bread

As the most common variation of challah, the braided type made with eggs can be found all over the world, though it does vary slightly depending on where you go. For the classic Ashkenazi-style loaf, yeast, sugar, salt and white flour are mixed together before egg and sunflower oil are added. The ingredients are then kneaded into a dough, before being chilled, rolled and plaited. It’s then baked, brushed with egg yolk and topped with sesame seeds, forming a golden mound of pillowy bread and a seed-studded, burnished armour of a crust. The Sephardic version is a round, golden swirl of bread that has no eggs or sugar in it and instead relies on the tang and crunch of sesame, caraway and cumin seeds for flavour. Israeli challah uses egg or olive oil for its dough, along with natural sweeteners including honey and raisins.

Where to find it:

We picked London – a veritable oasis of great kosher bakeries thanks to its sizeable Jewish population – to present to you the best challahs worth travelling for.

Carmelli’s, London

This Golders Green institution is a haven for challah lovers. Carmelli’s is cherished by north Londoners and has been the go-to spot for Jewish baked goods for almost 30 years now. Turn up here and pick out a bronzed loaf to go but don’t expect to walk out with just that – the pastries (the chocolatey rugellach in particular) are worthy of attention too. When you manage to drag yourself away laden with treats for the coming week, make your way to Martel Guest House.

The Happening Bagel Bakery, London

Though it opened in 1994, The Happening Bagel Bakery is very much still, well, happening. It’s known for its variety of bagels and towering cakes but it’s the challah that keeps customers coming back. Batches of this honey-coloured knotted loaf are baked here throughout the day, but it’s most popular straight out of the oven. Rise early and pick up a warm loaf on your way to quiet Finsbury Park. These apartments are only a few minutes’ walk from both the bakery and the park.

Rinkoff Bakery, London

Rinkoff Bakery is an East End favourite. A purveyor and inventor of all manner of pastry concoctions (namely the crodough – a croissant/doughnut hybrid), this establishment has long offered challah as one of its staple goods. And one of the best at that. Depending on your mood, you can opt for the classic plaited challah, the squat round challah or the sweeter raisin challah. Each one is soft and incredibly moreish – probably helped by the 100-year-old recipe used. Stay at New Road Hotel just down the road.

One reason to try it

Challah is so entrenched in symbolism and so esteemed within Jewish culture that it’s often given distinct characteristics. In one instance, when the Shabbat and holiday loaves are laid out on the table, they’re draped with an intricate and beautiful cover to shield them from feeling less important while the first blessings are given to the wine. As much of Jewish custom places an emphasis on hospitality, kindness and generosity, the cover is there as a reminder that the challah comes first in the blessings. Now that’s a serious eat.