Around the world in kebabs

The word ‘kebap’ (kebab) has Turkish, Urdu and Persian origins, and also derives from the Arabic term, kabāb, meaning roasted meat. More specifically, it refers to meat grilled on a skewer over an open fire – a technique that has spread over hundreds of years from the Middle East to all four corners of the world. The kebab’s influence can be seen in everything from the delicately seasoned Greek souvlaki, to Indonesian satay or South African ‘sosaties’.

Read on for the best destinations around the world to enjoy this beloved delicacy.

India

It may come as a surprise that India – a country known for its vegetarian cuisine – has a veritably diverse meat kebab offering. Kebab fans should first head to the northern Indian city of Lucknow, where the skewering and grilling tradition is particularly strong, and start with a ‘galouti’ (meaning ‘soft’) kebab. This melt-in-your-mouth delicacy is said to have been created for the Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh, who – in his toothless old age – could no longer chew normal kebabs (yet his passion for them raged on). Thus, the royal kitchens developed a succulent and flavoursome recipe using finely ground lamb, mutton or goat with raw papaya and an array of spices, all moulded into patties and then pan-fried.

Another patty-style Indian kebab is the shami, which is believed to have been introduced from abroad during the Mughal era. This aromatic dish contains minced lamb mixed with chana dal (split chickpeas), coriander and eggs, before being grilled or deep-fried to create a crispy-on-the-outside, smooth-on-the-inside snack. India also lays claim to the seekh kebab, where minced meat with coriander, cinnamon and turmeric is wrapped around a skewer, cooked in a tandoor until tender and served up on a bed of chutney, onions and buttery roti. Treat yourself to a stay worthy of the kebab-loving Nawab himself, at the Taj Mahal, Lucknow.

Indonesia

In Indonesia (and much of southeast Asia), skewered, grilled meat is known as satay. While recipes vary depending on the region, you can count on the slices of seasoned, marinated chicken (or beef or lamb) being cooked over a smouldering charcoal grill, before threaded along a thin bamboo skewer. But the most important aspect is the fiery, sweet peanut dipping sauce – laced with chili but distinctly creamy, it’s as moreish as they come. While the dipping sauces are all peanut-based, they do vary; some are delicately flavoured with lemongrass and others emphasise other spices. Just be aware that if you opt for a spicier version, you may need an accompanying, cooling cucumber and yoghurt sauce. Stay in the Indonesian capital of Jakarta, at the delightful B&B Tomang.

Turkey

The kebab is probably Turkey’s most famous culinary export, having spread all over the world in myriad forms. Almost every Turkish region has its own incarnation, often with identical ingredients but completely different cooking methods. One of the most familiar versions is the döner kebab, where lean lamb or chicken is roasted on a rotating spit until perfectly brown and crisp. Another is the ‘adana’ (from Biricik in Southern Turkey), with chili-spiced minced lamb moulded around a skewer, then cooked on a wood fire and served with roasted tomatoes, peppers, onions and parsley – to be considered genuine, the Adana must use meat from an organically raised male lamb.

A more upmarket kebab option is the ‘testi’, a combination of lamb and vegetables cooked in their juices within a sealed clay pot, which is then broken open at the table. For unbridled indulgence, try the Iskender kebab, named after its inventor, a Turkish butcher called İskender Efendi. The finest examples of this popular dish can be found in restaurants in his hometown of Bursa (or a few in the neighbourhood of Kadiköy in Istanbul), where crispy döner shavings are laid out on top of a loaf of pide (soft and spongy flatbread) before being doused in savoury tomato sauce, yoghurt and sizzling, melted butter. Base yourself at Loka Suites in Kadiköy to be well-placed to try several types of Turkish kebab.

Greece

It doesn’t get much better than Greece’s answer to the kebab, where simple flavours of oregano, garlic and lemon complement the meat beautifully. One version of this Mediterranean specialty that’s worth sampling is the ‘gyros’. The recipe entails lamb (these days, also beef, pork and chicken) being cooked on a vertical rotisserie before being rolled up in a grilled pita with salad and tzatziki (a dip of strained yoghurt, garlic, lemon, cucumber and olive oil). But the most popular kebab option in Greece is the ‘souvlaki’, whereby meat is doused in a lemony olive oil marinade, skewered and then grilled to smoky perfection. You can eat the meat straight off the stick or piled into a warm pita and topped with cherry tomatoes, onion, a dollop of tzatziki and an (optional) handful of crispy chips. Stay at SV Acropolis Residence in Athens and be astounded by the array of delicious kebabs.

South Africa

In South Africa, life tends to revolve around ‘braai’ (Afrikaans for barbecue or roast) so it goes without saying that you’ll find very tasty kebabs here. Known as ‘sosaties’, these skewers of lamb, mutton, beef, pork or chicken, broken up with dried apricots, peppers and onion, are marinated with spices and flame-grilled till they’re golden and charred. The dish has its roots in Malay cuisine since the spices used were introduced to South Africa’s shores by Indonesian slaves brought with the Dutch settlers. Recipes vary in their ratio of spices – some heavier on the cumin, others preferring more sweet apricot and curry powder. Eat your way around South Africa and experiment with different versions, especially if you find one made of locally produced sausage (‘boerwors’). Wake up to sublime views of Camps Bay and a homemade breakfast at Cape Town’s Boutique@10.