A guide to northern Spain

Travellers to Spain can’t get enough of sun-drenched jaunts along the Costa del Sol and Balearic island hopping, but the north of the country is often overlooked. With globally-renowned museums and generous plates of pintxos, to rugged mountain views and cobbled old town walks, northern Spain is a wonderful world of its own.

Architecture in Bilbao, Basque Country

The largest city in the Basque Country, Bilbao is a mountainous metropole that’s come to life in the last 20 years, due in part to its iconic architecture and urban development. Home to arguably Frank Gehry’s most famous work, The Guggenheim Museum is a glinting titanium wonder at the centre of Bilbao, and one of modern architecture’s most renowned buildings. Twisting and turning around itself and into the sky, the museum is a magnificent shimmering mass of promontories and curvatures.

Outside, you’ll find a mist installation by artist Fujiko Nakaya shrouding the museum exterior in a thin dramatic vapour, while Louise Bourgeois’ Maman sculpture stands tall in its spidery, skeletal glory. The opening and subsequent effect of the building did so much for Bilbao – urban regeneration and attracting tourists – it even inspired a phenomenon called the Bilbao effect. Take a self-guided tour before retreating back to Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao, for a room with an equally impressive view.

Pintxos in San Sebastián, Basque Country

San Sebastián is the Bay of Biscay’s crown jewel, and a gastro-paradise, with the second-highest number of Michelin stars per capita on the planet. Yet it’s the back alleys and local eateries where the real soul of Basque cuisine lies. The pintxos of northern Spain have legendary status, and it’s in San Sebastián where they reach unparalleled heights.

Pintxos are small bar-style snacks that are often served with a piece of bread and a cocktail stick and while unassuming, their reverence is deserved. Try the baby cuttlefish tempura at A Fuego Negro, spider crab tartlet and sauteed mixed mushrooms at Ganbara, or slow-cooked sucking pig at La Cuchara de San Telmo, and pair it with a glass of the dry local wine, Txakoli. Stay at central Pensión Peñaflorida, which is also a few minutes walk from the beach.

Wine in La Rioja

Home of the world-conquering Rioja wine, La Rioja region deserves as much attention as its bold produce. An area of endless rolling hills, ochre earth and rows upon rows of delicate vines, La Rioja is an embodiment of the Spanish colours and experience. Sip on full-bodied red riojas, or try the lesser-known white Rioja at one of the region’s many wineries.

The Rioja Alta, a stretch from Haro to Logroño that’s known for its congregation of high quality wines, is a good place to start. Stay in the cobbled old town of San Vicente de la Sonsierra and rustic Casona del Boticario.

Beaches in Santander, Cantabria

With one of the most beautiful city beaches in Spain, Santander is a quieter alternative to the popular stretches of southern Spain. El Sardinero is the premier sunspot, a long crescent that clings to the city’s promenade, dotted with lively bars, restaurants and elegant Belle Époque style buildings. A short drive from Santander and you’ll reach Playa de Loredo, which is particularly popular with surfers. If you’re planning to stay in Santander itself, check into Le Petit Boutique Hotel, only a 2-minute walk from the beach.

History and heritage in Oviedo, Asturias

The capital of Asturias, Oviedo is a small town, with a cosy and cobbled Old Town that is a welcome contrast to the more boisterous cities of the coast. Asturias was its own kingdom before the very invention of Spain, and Oviedo has a strong architectural presence that includes pre-Romanesque and Romanesque buildings such as Santa María del Naranco and the towering Oviedo cathedral. Walk through this charming town, past romantic spires and worn cider-houses, and you’ll be swept up in its provincial spell. Hold onto that sense of history at least for a night at Eurostars Hotel de la Reconquista, housed in an 18-century building declared a national monument.

Hiking in Picos de Europa, Castilla y León

Snow-dusted peaks, lush pastures and soaring cliffs sound more like Switzerland than Spain, but the Picos de Europa mountain range straddling Cantabria, Asturias and Castilla y León are firmly Spanish. Revel in the knowledge that most tourists don’t make it this far, when you’re cresting one of the many winding walkways provided and feasting on views of the rugged, Atlantic mountains. In Fuente Dé – home to a sky-scraping cable car – catch your breath after the plunging ride at Parador de Fuente Dé.

Cathedrals in Santiago de Compostela, Galicia

The end stop on the legendary Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, Santiago de Compostela is home to the shrine of the apostle St James the Great. The atmospheric cathedral has an ancient Romanesque facade and constellation of spires that were once a distant beacon, instilling both hope and promise into those who made the journey. Experience it for yourself as you wander through the town’s arcaded streets and cast your eyes back to the cathedral, always lingering in the background. Or if you prefer a short walk back, stay at Parado de Santiago – Hostal Reis Catolics – this 15th-century building is right next door to the cathedral.