Gaps in Mitered 45 deg Angle Cuts on Laminate Countertops

Gaps in Mitered 45 deg Angle Cuts on Laminate Countertops

#1

Gaps in Mitered 45 deg Angle Cuts on Laminate Countertops

We are replacing the countertops in our kitchen with some laminate ones we picked up at IKEA. They do not have a backsplash attached, they’re just slabs of laminate covered plywood.
We VERY carefully measured, re measured and triple checked the cut line before cutting. My husband cut them with a Skil circular saw with a blade for use on laminate/plywood.
When we put them all in place, there are some serious gaps. Not along the wall, or in the corners, but along the front. I cannot find anything online about this and have no clue how to fix it.
I bought a router and purchased a flush trim router bit but I’m afraid of using it. I really don’t want to call on someone to come in and finish it if I don’t have to, so any advice is greatly appreciated.
I do have photos of the problem and will figure out how to post them here shortly.

We VERY carefully measured, re measured and triple checked the cut line before cutting. My husband cut them with a Skil circular saw with a blade for use on laminate/plywood.

When we put them all in place, there are some serious gaps. Not along the wall, or in the corners, but along the front. I cannot find anything online about this and have no clue how to fix it.

I bought a router and purchased a flush trim router bit but I’m afraid of using it. I really don’t want to call on someone to come in and finish it if I don’t have to, so any advice is greatly appreciated.

I do have photos of the problem and will figure out how to post them here shortly.

#2

Welcome to the forums.
Give this a shot: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el…rt-images.html

Give this a shot: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el…rt-images.html

#4

Those cuts are just not straight enough. The limitation here was the tool, as it’s just not easy to cut a perfectly straight line with a circular saw unless you have a guide clamped in place and it sounds like you did not.
Do you have enough overhang at the other ends to be able to re-do these cuts?

Do you have enough overhang at the other ends to be able to re-do these cuts?

#5

Welcome!
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el…rt-images.html
See above for how to insert pictures. Not sure if I understand the cuts made. If you attempted to cut the corner miter joints using a saw at home, this is one of the hardest things you can do and usually the cuts are made in the shop with precision tools.
Edit: saw the pictures.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el…rt-images.html

See above for how to insert pictures. Not sure if I understand the cuts made. If you attempted to cut the corner miter joints using a saw at home, this is one of the hardest things you can do and usually the cuts are made in the shop with precision tools.

Edit: saw the pictures.

#6

We did set up and use a fence, and I did think that the cuts didn’t come out 100 percent straight…Telling my hubby that was not fun, lol.
I’ve tried to find a “shop” around our area to do the cuts but have had zero luck which is why I purchased the router.
Luckily there is room to redo the cuts. An inch or so on the one and maybe 1/2″ on the other. The countertops were inexpensive though so if I had to, we could repurchase them. I just don’t want to make that drive back out to IKEA!

I’ve tried to find a “shop” around our area to do the cuts but have had zero luck which is why I purchased the router.

Luckily there is room to redo the cuts. An inch or so on the one and maybe 1/2″ on the other. The countertops were inexpensive though so if I had to, we could repurchase them. I just don’t want to make that drive back out to IKEA!

#7

Do you have the ability to clamp them in place such that they will not move in a formation resembling the kitchen but somewhere else so you have room to work all the way to the back of the slabs? What I’m proposing it put them together exactly like they would be in the kitchen and make your cut down the joint line of both boards at the same time. Might take more than one cut with repositioning the slabs against each other between cuts (since you have a relatively narrow kerf of the blade compared to the error of the original cut) but I would think the end result would be perfectly matched edges.

#8

Find a friendly associate at BigBox in the cabinet area and ask where they send counter tops to be trimmed. I found one that way and they would take walk ins. Be prepared to pay in cash especially if you have no tax number.

#9

Cuts

Looks like the trouble was near the front edge where there is extra thickness. I am guessing the blade guard on the saw was not held up so as to not drag on the edge and throw off the saw alignment.

#10

Member

Join Date: Jan 2011

Location: USA

Posts: 4,459

Received 125 Upvotes on 110 Posts

I agree with the near impossible idea on making those cuts with a ciruler saw no matter what you try and use for a guide.
If I need one like that I order them with the 45’s already cut and just cut the tops to length.

If I need one like that I order them with the 45’s already cut and just cut the tops to length.

#11

I think the person a few posts up is correct. The areas of concern are where the cuts were started and I believe he had the blade guard up but I’m not 100. He’s very handy and has done all sorts of work on the house. But this kitchen counter has us headed to divorce court…
I can set them up outside on the sawhorses and align them that way. At least the back piece along the wall. It’s three separate pieces. The peninsula (6′) , the back wall piece with the sink cut out (8′) and then this one 33″ wide side piece that goes next to the stove. The motets are cut on each side of the back wall piece.
If I did that, couldn’t I use the router w/the flush trim bit to even them out? The biggest gap is less than 1/16th of an inch. Seems in theory this would fix the issue but maybe I’m wrong, idk.
We wanted to purchase the counters custom made (Wilsonart laminate from HD) to fit the kitchen, but my brother over ruled that idea. Said it would take too long (3 weeks). That was back in June, lol. This was the only thing he’d agree to other than that Rustoleum $20 counter paint garbage) and they desperately needed replaced.
It’s my mom’s house and she passed away this year. Trying to get it on the market has been one PITA after another. We are SO close, but still so far away…

I can set them up outside on the sawhorses and align them that way. At least the back piece along the wall. It’s three separate pieces. The peninsula (6′) , the back wall piece with the sink cut out (8′) and then this one 33″ wide side piece that goes next to the stove. The motets are cut on each side of the back wall piece.

If I did that, couldn’t I use the router w/the flush trim bit to even them out? The biggest gap is less than 1/16th of an inch. Seems in theory this would fix the issue but maybe I’m wrong, idk.

We wanted to purchase the counters custom made (Wilsonart laminate from HD) to fit the kitchen, but my brother over ruled that idea. Said it would take too long (3 weeks). That was back in June, lol. This was the only thing he’d agree to other than that Rustoleum $20 counter paint garbage) and they desperately needed replaced.

It’s my mom’s house and she passed away this year. Trying to get it on the market has been one PITA after another. We are SO close, but still so far away…

#12

Join Date: Dec 2004

Posts: 26,194

Received 1,707 Upvotes on 1,531 Posts

If you were going to try again I would suggest you lay them down on a level area, like the floor, placing the mitered pieces in position with each other- just like they are in the photo. Line up the inside corner better, looking at the short point of each miter, they look a bit out of square with each other since the rounded front corners don’t match up. Put scrap 2x4s underneath to raise them up and make sure they are level… that one isn’t higher than the other. Tape them together with gorilla tape so they don’t move. Clamp a guide to one side. Put something sacrificial in front to start the cut, if needed, and use a longer guide that extends beyond each end. Then run your skilsaw down the miter, recutting the existing miter. If you do that, the sawcut should be straight and each side will match the other because you only made ONE cut… not 2 separate cuts.
Hope you have something to epoxy them together.

Hope you have something to epoxy them together.

#13

Counter Top

I would strongly suggest using counter tops which have the mitre cuts already done. The bonus is the fact that the slots for the mitre bolts will be pre-cut.
Google “mitred counter top clamps” to find a video on assembling the mitred counter tops with mitre bolts.

Google “mitred counter top clamps” to find a video on assembling the mitred counter tops with mitre bolts.

#14

While I appreciate the responses, it’s clear some didn’t even bother to read the OP.
There’s several reasons why we didn’t buy the ones with the miters already cut…Namely they were all too wide or they did not come with a peninsula (bar type) piece in stock. The ones that did (which also had the preformed lam without a backsplash on it) were a good 10″ too wide for our cabinets, therefore not useable.
These, other than getting custom made lam, were the ONLY ones that would fit. They are just slabs, no miters and no option to purchase them, either.
Hindsight is 20/20. I should have just went ahead and ordered them custom made for the kitchen. However, I’m past that point and just looking for the best solution to the problem at hand.
I purchased double action fasteners which are essentially the same thing as miter bolts. I have a router so we could rout our own spaces for miter bolts as j have that kit as well. I have more glue, epoxy and other stuff than I care to mention. All for this PITA counter.
I’m not looking for a bunch of “you should haves, I would haves, etc.”
Thanks.

There’s several reasons why we didn’t buy the ones with the miters already cut…Namely they were all too wide or they did not come with a peninsula (bar type) piece in stock. The ones that did (which also had the preformed lam without a backsplash on it) were a good 10″ too wide for our cabinets, therefore not useable.

These, other than getting custom made lam, were the ONLY ones that would fit. They are just slabs, no miters and no option to purchase them, either.

Hindsight is 20/20. I should have just went ahead and ordered them custom made for the kitchen. However, I’m past that point and just looking for the best solution to the problem at hand.

I purchased double action fasteners which are essentially the same thing as miter bolts. I have a router so we could rout our own spaces for miter bolts as j have that kit as well. I have more glue, epoxy and other stuff than I care to mention. All for this PITA counter.

I’m not looking for a bunch of “you should haves, I would haves, etc.”

Thanks.

#15

I stand by my suggestion in post # 7 which is the same thing X proposed in post # 12.
Ray’s suggestion in post # 8 is my second choice.

Ray’s suggestion in post # 8 is my second choice.

#16

Hallelujah!! PTL!!

So, after getting out a scrap piece of the countertop from the pile of leftovers, clamping it down to my sawhorse table set up and making a new 45 degree cut line, I got out the router armed with a sharp and brand new flush trim bit.
Not only did it cut through the laminate and plywood like butter, it cut a perfectly straight line.
Once we get these pieces all fixed and the counters assembled, etc. I’ll post pictures of the finished job.
Praying this works as well as it seems to have on the other one!!

Not only did it cut through the laminate and plywood like butter, it cut a perfectly straight line.

Once we get these pieces all fixed and the counters assembled, etc. I’ll post pictures of the finished job.

Praying this works as well as it seems to have on the other one!!

#17

I appreciate it…I’m going to try fixing it with the router first and if that doesn’t pan out, either try to find a big wood working shop to cut them. Or stack them on top of each other, lining them up at each cut and cutting them at the same time.
BUT I’m thinking the router WILL work.

BUT I’m thinking the router WILL work.

#18

Join Date: Dec 2004

Posts: 26,194

Received 1,707 Upvotes on 1,531 Posts

You don’t stack them “on top of each other” if you are going to use a skilsaw! If you re-read the posts, we suggested placing them just like you have them in the photo… miter to miter, taped so they don’t budge… then run the saw down the joint to make a book matched joint. Up to you whose advice to take.
I can see what you are trying to do with the router by stacking them and cutting them both at once, but you would be much wiser to take the advice, place the miters together, check the corner with a framing square, then make your cut. If you stack them together you are taking the chance that you are not cutting a perfect 45. If you are even 1° off, you will now have a 88° or 92° corner instead of a 90°.
Good luck!

I can see what you are trying to do with the router by stacking them and cutting them both at once, but you would be much wiser to take the advice, place the miters together, check the corner with a framing square, then make your cut. If you stack them together you are taking the chance that you are not cutting a perfect 45. If you are even 1° off, you will now have a 88° or 92° corner instead of a 90°.

Good luck!

#19

It is possible to get a nice cut with a top bearing flush trim router bit and a straightedge. As stated above, the angles need to be correct and you need to keep router from tilting in or out. There are easier jobs. Don’t try to cut joint, but just shave off as little as possible.
If you do get a decent cut, there’s still the matter of access to dog bones from under the counter and gluing the joint. Let us know if you need help there, it can be tricky.

If you do get a decent cut, there’s still the matter of access to dog bones from under the counter and gluing the joint. Let us know if you need help there, it can be tricky.

#20

We worked on it most of the afternoon and between the belt sander, a smaller sander, the router and a piece of 60 grit sandpaper, I’m happy to say we are ready to finish it all up tomorrow!!! Woot woot!!
The seams are barely a millimeter wide, which is completely acceptable in a 40 year old house and using IKEA laminate counter slabs. We still have to do the tile backslash, but that shouldn’t be nearly as difficult as the counters!!
The belt sander (my friends hubby who does this kind of work for a living suggested it) really made the biggest difference…The router is a cheapy from Harbor Freight that’s going back ASAP. It just was a pain to use because the plastic guide kept moving down while using it, no matter how tight you had it in there. You get what you pay for…
As far as the miter bolts, we considered using the router to make the cut outs in the bottom for them but found these “dual action fasteners” at Menard’s that are for countertops. They basically screw into the bottom of the counter and you tighten the bolt up on the fastener. Those were an awesome find.
Once we get it all done (I also have to finish painting the cabinets and finish the beadboard wainscoting around the peninsula, lol) I’ll post photos. We thought this would take a week, maybe two and it’s been a month…that’s a long time without an intact kitchen.
I really do appreciate all the advice!! I’ve learned a lot over the past few months and realize that people who do this kind of work deserve the good rate of pay they earn, that’s for sure!! I also realize that I really enjoy doing these projects…We may be looking for our own fixer upper when we move!
: )

The seams are barely a millimeter wide, which is completely acceptable in a 40 year old house and using IKEA laminate counter slabs. We still have to do the tile backslash, but that shouldn’t be nearly as difficult as the counters!!

The belt sander (my friends hubby who does this kind of work for a living suggested it) really made the biggest difference…The router is a cheapy from Harbor Freight that’s going back ASAP. It just was a pain to use because the plastic guide kept moving down while using it, no matter how tight you had it in there. You get what you pay for…

As far as the miter bolts, we considered using the router to make the cut outs in the bottom for them but found these “dual action fasteners” at Menard’s that are for countertops. They basically screw into the bottom of the counter and you tighten the bolt up on the fastener. Those were an awesome find.

Once we get it all done (I also have to finish painting the cabinets and finish the beadboard wainscoting around the peninsula, lol) I’ll post photos. We thought this would take a week, maybe two and it’s been a month…that’s a long time without an intact kitchen.

I really do appreciate all the advice!! I’ve learned a lot over the past few months and realize that people who do this kind of work deserve the good rate of pay they earn, that’s for sure!! I also realize that I really enjoy doing these projects…We may be looking for our own fixer upper when we move!

: )