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This article was co-written by Bianca Cox. Bianca Cox is a hairstylist, esthetician, owner of The Hair Throne and co-owner of Bianchi Salon. Her establishments pride themselves on professional service, contemporary style and personality. You can check out The Hair Throne and Bianca’s hairstyles on Instagram @hairthrone and her profile Instagram @biancajcox.
There are 9 references cited in this article that you can view at the bottom of the page.
This article has been viewed 33,893 times.
Determining your hair type will help you know how to care for, cut and style your hair more effectively. To determine your hair type, you need to understand many different factors of hair, including density, texture, porosity (ability to hold water), elasticity, and curl pattern. Hairstylists can use the results of the hair type determination to suggest you the best hairstyle, hair color and care products for your hair.
Steps
Determination of hair density
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Look in the mirror and part your hair in the middle of your head. Use your fingers or a comb to part your hair into two sections. You can clip one side down to avoid entanglement.
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Hold a lock of hair to one side. Move the curl a bit so that you can see the roots from different angles.
- Turn on the light in the bathroom to see the hair clearly. You can also ask someone else to shine a desk lamp or flashlight over your head for extra light.
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Estimate hair density. Basically, hair density is the amount of hair on the head. Take a look at the hairline and scalp. How many hairs can you see in an area of 6 cm2?
- There is no need to count each hair, but you can estimate the thickness of your hair based on the area of the visible scalp.
- Thickness : If the scalp is almost invisible, your hair is dense.
- Medium Density : If a little scalp is visible, your hair density is medium.
- Thin density : If a lot of scalp is visible, your hair has a thin density.
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Test further in another spot on the scalp. Repeat this process at another point on top. Hair density can be different in different areas of the head.
- Ask a friend to help you see the back of your head. Ask them to take pictures so you can see better.
Determination of hair texture/diameter
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Head washing. Use your normal shampoo and conditioner to wash your hair as usual. Rinse off shampoo and conditioner.
- Choose a time when you don’t exercise or have a sweaty activity to avoid skewing the results.
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Let hair dry naturally. Using a hair dryer can change the way your hair reacts over a period of time, so it’s best to use a towel to dry your hair and let it dry naturally.
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Cut a sewing thread about 15-20 cm long. Choose regular sewing thread instead of heavy thread used for sewing thick fabrics.
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Pull out a hair. Try to get a single strand of hair intact, without any horizontal breakage. You need to know the thickness of the hair, so it is recommended to use the most typical hair for the whole hair. The top of the head is the most suitable area for hair sampling.
- Hair should be dry and free of styling products. It’s best to remove styling products when sampling your hair for the most accurate results.
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Place the strand of hair next to the thread on the white paper. Use a blank sheet of paper to clearly see the hair and thread, so it will be easier to compare. [1] X Research Source
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Compare the hair with the thread. Look closely at the hair through a magnifying glass or magnifying mirror. If the strand is too curly, stretch it out a bit before you compare it with the thread. You can also use tape to stick the ends of the hair and thread in place.
- Thin hair : If the strand of hair is thinner than the thread, your hair has a thin texture.
- Medium hair : If a strand of hair is as thick as a thread, your hair is of medium thickness.
- Thick hair : If the strand of hair is thicker than the thread, your hair is in the thick category.
Determine the porosity of the hair
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Head washing. Use your normal shampoo and conditioner to wash your hair as usual. Rinse off shampoo and conditioner. Make sure any chemicals and hair care products are not left on the hair.
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Use a towel to dry the hair relatively. Comb it through, then use a clean t-shirt or microfiber towel to wring your hair out. Do not dry your hair too dry, or you will not be able to accurately determine the porosity, i.e. the ability of the hair to hold water.
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Use your hands to stroke your hair. Hold a lock of hair in your hand and stroke it from the root to the tip. Gently press into curls to feel the moisture.
- Low porosity : If your hair is mostly dry, it means your hair doesn’t hold much moisture and has low porosity. [2] X Research Source
- Medium porosity : If your hair is fairly wet but not sticky, your hair has medium moisture retention and medium porosity.
- High porosity : If your hair is sticky as if it takes a long time to dry, your hair is highly porous and has a high moisture holding capacity.
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Drop your hair into a large bowl of water. Pull out a strand of hair and drop it into a large bowl of water. The bowl of water should be wide enough so that the hair does not touch the sides of the bowl. Observe what happens to the hair. [3] X Research Sources
- Low porosity: If the hair is completely floating on the water, your hair has low porosity.
- Medium porosity : After a while, the hair will sink down, which is an indication that the hair has medium porosity.
- High porosity : If the strand of hair sinks quickly to the bottom of the bowl, your hair has a high porosity.
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Try again another day. Weather can affect hair; On a wet day, your hair may react differently than on a dry day.
Determine the oiliness of the hair
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Head washing. Use your normal shampoo and conditioner to wash your hair as usual. Rinse off shampoo and conditioner.
- Choose a time when you don’t exercise or have a sweaty activity to avoid skewing the results.
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Let hair dry naturally. Using a hair dryer can change the way your hair reacts over a period of time, so it’s best to use a towel to dry your hair and let it dry naturally.
- Do not use any product on your hair, as this may result in inaccurate results.
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Wait overnight. Wait a while (about 8-12 hours) for the hair and scalp to produce oil, and you will rely on that to check.
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Check the oil level. In the morning, apply a tissue to your scalp on the top of your head. Do not rub but just gently press the scalp is enough. You also need to apply a tissue to the area behind the ear. [4] X Research Sources
- Oily hair : If there is oil on the tissue, you have oily hair.
- Medium Hair : If you see traces of oil on the tissue, your hair is medium.
- Dry hair : If there is no trace on the tissue, your hair is dry.
- Combination Hair : If one area is oil-free but another is oily, your hair is combination.
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Try again another day. Weather can affect hair; On a wet day, your hair may react differently than on a dry day.
Check the elasticity of your hair
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Pull out a strand of dry hair. Freshly washed and towel-dried hair will give you the best results. Try to get the hair intact, don’t let it break.
- Hair should be dry and free of any styling products. It’s best to remove styling products when sampling your hair for the most accurate results.
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Stretch the hair. Use both hands to hold the ends of the hair and pull gently.
- Do not pull too quickly so that the hair does not break too soon. The hair will eventually break, but you need to see how much it stretches before it breaks. [5] X Research Sources
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Observe what happens when you pull the hair. Watch the hair stretch like an elastic band and pay close attention when it breaks. When wet hair has high elasticity, it will stretch up to 50% of its original length before breaking.
- High Elasticity : If you can pull a strand of hair out a long way before it breaks, your hair has high elasticity and is very strong.
- Medium Elasticity : If you can stretch a strand of hair out a little before it breaks, your hair has medium elasticity.
- Low elasticity : If the hair almost breaks as soon as you pull it out, your hair has low elasticity and is not very strong. Hair fibers can stretch like bubble gum and curl when broken.
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Try another strand of hair in a different spot on your head. Hair in different areas of the head can have different elasticity. If you’ve used a strand of hair on the top of your head before, try checking a strand of hair behind your ear or on the nape of your neck.
Determine the curl of the hair
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Head washing. Use your normal shampoo and conditioner to wash your hair as usual. Rinse off shampoo and conditioner.
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Let hair dry naturally. Using a hair dryer can change the way your hair reacts over a period of time, so it’s best to use a towel to dry your hair and let it dry naturally.
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Determine the curl of the hair. Andre Walker, Oprah Winfrey’s hairstylist, created a system to determine hair type based on curl and curl pattern. [6] X Research Sources This system covers hair types from straight to curly.
- 1 (straight) : Hair without curl.
- 2 (wavy) : The hair is wavy but not very curly.
- 3 (curly) : Curly hair is S-shaped and has obvious curls even without styling. [7] X Research Sources
- 4 (curly) : Tight curls, usually in a Z pattern. [8] X Research Source You can stretch your hair, and it will return to its original curly shape when you let go. Style 4 hair can shrink to 75% of its true length. [9] X Research Source
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Find the subtypes of hair. Observe a typical curl of hair. Consider the thickness and type of curl (if you have curly hair). [10] X Research Source , [11] X Research Source , [12] X Research Source These subcategories are also based on Andre Walker’s system whereby hair is classified into four categories, and within each major category There are 3 sub-categories.
- 1A : Hair is soft and does not hold frizz.
- 1B : Hair is not curly but has volume.
- 1C : Hair is not frizzy and quite coarse.
- 2A : S-shaped wavy hair and coarse.
- 2B : Wavy hair with obvious curls.
- 2C : Very curly hair with thick wavy curls and is the coarsest of this hair type.
- 3A : The curls are the same diameter as the chalk, or the curls are quite loose.
- 3B : Brush-sized curls, or medium-sized curls.
- 3C : Pencil diameter curls or wine opener curls.
- 4A : Very tight curls about the diameter of a needle.
- 4B : Zigzag curls look like a Z shape.
- 4C : There may be no curls for this hairstyle. This is a very tight zigzag hairstyle, so it is more difficult to identify.
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Compare your hair with the LOIS system. The LOIS system is a system that classifies curly hair, including the texture and thickness of the hair. This system compares hair with the letters L (corrugated), O (curly), I (straight) and S (ripple). [13] X Research Source Take a strand of hair and hold it in your hand. Compare your hair with the letters L, O, I and S.
- L : The strand of hair looks like an L, with straight corners, folds and folds. This is a curly, zigzag type of hair.
- O : O-shaped or spiral-like hair consisting of many O’s.
- I : Straight hair, very little or no curls, similar to the letter I.
- S : Curly hair that looks like the letter S.
- Mixed : Your hair can be a combination of two or more letter styles. In this case, test a few more strands of hair from different places on your head to see which letter stands out more.
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This article was co-written by Bianca Cox. Bianca Cox is a hairstylist, esthetician, owner of The Hair Throne and co-owner of Bianchi Salon. Her establishments pride themselves on professional service, contemporary style and personality. You can check out The Hair Throne and Bianca’s hairstyles on Instagram @hairthrone and her profile Instagram @biancajcox.
There are 9 references cited in this article that you can view at the bottom of the page.
This article has been viewed 33,893 times.
Determining your hair type will help you know how to care for, cut and style your hair more effectively. To determine your hair type, you need to understand many different factors of hair, including density, texture, porosity (ability to hold water), elasticity, and curl pattern. Hairstylists can use the results of the hair type determination to suggest you the best hairstyle, hair color and care products for your hair.
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