Cycle the EuroVelo Trail: Route 2

Criss-crossing the European continent, the EuroVelo Trail comprises of 15 long-distance cycling routes promising adventure and stupendous scenery.

For the second instalment of a series dedicated to this extensive cycling network, we highlight the EuroVelo 2, known as the ‘Capitals Route’ because – as it passes through Ireland, the UK, the Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Belarus and Russia – it takes in some of Europe’s finest capital cities. The entire route is an ambitious 5,500km-long, so unless you’re planning on taking a fair amount of time off work, it’s best broken up into smaller chunks. One of the most popular stretches is the section from the Hook of Holland to Berlin or Warsaw, cycling through forests and staying in lakeside campsites as well as in captivating and contrasting cities.

The Netherlands

The Dutch section of the route is clearly signposted so you won’t have to fret about getting lost but it’s advisable to order the route book from the EuroVelo website in any case. The Netherlands is a flat country, so you’ll be hard-pressed to find even the slightest incline along the route – instead, expect smooth and easy cycling past windmills, meadows populated with complacent cows and along rivers and canals. And be sure to stop in local taverns or bruin bars (characterful cafés that are ubiquitous throughout the country) to sample plenty of the Netherlands’ world-famous beer.

Den Haag

As the seat of the Dutch government, monarchy and the U.N.’s International Court of Justice, the seaside city of Den Haag is a prestigious place. And its cultural offering reflects that; visit the Escher museum for mind-boggling optical illusions by the eponymous graphic artist, wander around the Mauritshuis (one of the world’s finest small museums) to see Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring, or visit the Gemeentemuseum to admire its illuminating and expressive Mondrian collection. It’s also worth cycling to Van Kleef & Zoon, the city’s oldest gin distillery, to try historic batches of genever, the juniper-flavored national drink from which gin evolved. Finally, pedal towards the beach and spend the evening at one of the bars along Scheveningen, one of the city’s liveliest seaside stretches – Barbarossa and Whoosah are two popular haunts. Spend the night at the Stayokay Den Haag, with bright, energetic communal spaces and indoor bicycle storage.

Utrecht

The medieval, university city of Utrecht provides a perfect pit stop along the way – it’s about as cycle-friendly as cities come but it’s also very walkable, so you can dump the bike and explore on foot. Follow the Letters of Utrecht, a never ending poem carved into the cobblestones that line the canals, with a new letter carved into the streets every Saturday afternoon. Visit the central farmers’ market and flower market, taste Dutch fries in paper cones from Frietwinkel, climb the Dom Tower and have dinner in one of the city’s atmospheric cellar restaurants. Relax after a day’s cycling in a suite with mustard velvet headboards and Oxford-blue walls at Court Hotel City Centre Utrecht.

Germany and Poland

As you cross the border from the Netherlands to Germany, you’ll start to notice the scenery becoming more diverse. Cycle through dense beech and spruce trees covering undulating hills in the Teutoburg Forest and traverse riverscapes and the Middle Elbe Biosphere Reserve, before spotting the Harz Mountains start to rise up before you.

Berlin

Cycling past Berlin’s Victory Column and then through the Brandenburg Gate is quite the entrance and introduction to the city. You can immediately feel the city’s history all around you, from the vast Tiergarten, which was a royal hunting ground in the 16th century, to Checkpoint Charlie, the famous crossing point between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. Depending on how much time you’ve given yourself on your EuroVelo itinerary, you could cycle along the Berlin Wall Trail (a three-day expedition) or simply pay the remaining sections of the wall a visit. There’s also the view from the top of Sir Norman Foster’s impressive Reichstag dome and the galleries aplenty on Museum Island. But best of all, the dynamic German capital is surrounded by beautiful lakes such as the Müggelsee, all reachable by bike (it takes just over an hour to cycle) and ideal for a day spent sunning yourself and picnicking on sandy shores. Stay at the Motel One Berlin-Spittelmarkt, a 10-minute cycle from the Brandenburg Gate.

Warsaw

Take some time off from cycling to soak up the delights of Warsaw, from its UNESCO-listed Old Town Square to Łazienki Park, where lakes reflect images of willow trees and the park’s classicist palace. The city has cycle paths built in to much of its infrastructure, including a popular route running along the banks of the Vistula. And in case your bike is in need of some servicing while you’re staying in the Polish capital, you can still get around by hiring a replacement from the city’s Veturilo bike share programme. And – for those not continuing on the EuroVelo into Belarus and the ancient Białowieża Forest, you can always take a bike tour from Warsaw into the countryside to witness the raw beauty of the Masurian Lake District and the Napiwodzko-Ramucka Forest. Enjoy the views of the city while staying at Glam Apartments.