Destination Inspiration: Saturnia, Italy

Why go?

Legend has it that Saturnia’s hot springs were born from a battle between the Roman gods Jupiter and Saturn. Where Jupiter’s thunderbolt fell, bubbling water sprang from the ground, forming steamy waterfalls and swirling natural pools.

The tiny town of Saturnia watches over the waters from a nearby ridge. Rustic restaurants and B&Bs stand beside Etruscan ruins and medieval walls, while squat stone farmhouses stud the surrounding fields. Outside the village, undulating hills give way to the wilder landscapes of the Maremma Natural Park. This is Tuscany untamed – all fragrant pine forests and sweeping sand dunes.

Today several springs belong to upscale spa hotels, but Cascate del Mulino and Cascate del Gorello are still open to the public. Choose your spot and sink into the mineral-rich alkaline waters – said to soothe joint aches and aid circulation. The slight scent of sulphur is worth it for how soft your skin will feel afterwards.

When to go?

Most travellers visit Saturnia between June and September, but you’ll find milder temperatures, lower prices, and fewer crowds in April, May or October. If you want the springs to yourself, consider visiting in winter – the warm water means you can soak all year round.

Where to stay?

Agriturismo Valle Martina – Saturnia, Italy

This farmstay’s location couldn’t be better – just a few minutes’ drive from the Cascate del Mulino waterfall. Valle Martina’s outdoor pool and gardens are surrounded by spectacular scenery, while inside, homemade cakes and jams take pride of place at the breakfast table.

Terme di Saturnia Spa & Golf Resort – Saturnia, Italy

For all-out indulgence, Terme di Saturnia is hard to beat. The star of this spa resort is the vast outdoor pool, built directly over a thermal vent. If that’s not enough, there’s a lavish marble wellness centre, an 18-hole golf course, and a Michelin-star restaurant that serves Tuscan fusion dishes.

Agriturismo il Giardino – Saturnia, Italy

Agriturismo il Giardino scores high on convenience, with handy self-catering facilities and a central location between Saturnia and Montemerano. Each simple apartment has its own kitchen and dining area, but there’s also outdoor seating and a barbecue in the shared garden.

Villa Clodia – Saturnia, Italy

Tuscan traditions live on in Villa Clodia’s vaulted ceilings, carved wooden furniture, and huge stone fireplace. It’s right in the heart of the village but you wouldn’t know it from the sheltered terrace, where a private pool looks out over deep pink bougainvillea flowers and rolling green hills beyond.

Agriturismo Pian Di Cataverna – Saturnia, Italy

Agriturismo Pian Di Cataverna has a truly local feel, from the rustic beamed ceilings and wrought-iron furnishings to the homemade ricotta served at breakfast. This working farm still produces its own olive oil – you can even buy a bottle to take home!