3 Ways to Bustle a Gown

This article was co-authored by Margo West. Margo West is a Professional Tailor and the Owner of Margo West Bridal Alterations in Dallas, Texas. She is renowned for her expertise in bridal alterations, custom wedding gowns, wedding-related design, and pattern making. Her 44 years of bridal experience has earned her the prestigious WeddingWire Brides Choice Award, Couples Choice Award 2013-2019, and The Knot Best of Weddings 2018-2020. Margo was also featured in House of Diffa 2018 Jacket Collection and Modern Luxury Brides Magazine 2020. She will launch her new bridal gown collection for fall 2021.

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Anyone who has ever gotten married can testify that weddings are incredibly expensive. Most couples look for ways to cut corners and save money, and one way you can do that is by bustling your gown yourself. Wedding dresses do not come with a pre-made bustle, but if you’re handy with a needle and thread, you can learn to sew one on yourself.

Steps

Adding a One-Point Overbustle

1. 1Sew a loop. Place a safety pin on the back of the dress, halfway up the length of the bride’s train. This is where the loop will go. Thread the needle by doubling up the thread and inserting it into the needle. Tie the end of the thread with a knot to secure it.[1] X Research source
   • Insert the needle into the underside of the dress. Pull the thread all the way through.
   • Make a small stitch and pull the thread most the way through to create a loop.
   • Grab the loop with your fingers and pull the remaining thread through the loop to create a knot.
   • Repeat this process until you have a loop big enough to fit your button.
   • Secure the loop by running the needle and thread through the loop to tie it off.
   • Insert the needle through the fabric to the other side and make two knots. Cut off any excess thread.
2. 2Attach the button. Place a safety pin on the back of the dress, a foot above the bride’s knees. This is where the button will go. Thread the needle and make a knot at the end of the thread. Thread the needle through the underside of the dress.[2] X Research source
   • Attach the button to the dress using the needle and thread.
   • Stitch the button four times to make sure it is secure.
   • Secure the button by running the needle and thread through the fabric to the other side. Make two knots and cut off any excess thread.
   • If you prefer, you can also sew the button onto the waist of the dress and the loop onto the train.[3]
     X
     Expert Source
     Margo WestProfessional Tailor Expert Interview. 7 December 2020.

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3. 3Bustle the dress. Hook the loop over the button to lift the dress’s train off of the floor. Rearrange the folds of fabric around the bustle to make the bustle appear bigger and to give it more volume.[4] X Research source
   • The one-point overbustle is the least expensive way to bustle a dress, but it’s also the least secure.
   • The one point overbustle is only recommended for dresses with lighter fabric.
   • Do not try the over bustle if your dress is heavy or has a particularly long train.

Adding a French Bustle

1. 1Measure the seam. To add a French bustle, start by measuring the center back seam of the gown’s train from the waist to the floor. Then measure the distance from the edge of the train to the base of the dress.[5] X Research source
   • Mark the place between these two distances with a pin.
2. 2Pin the waistline seam and train. Lift the center back seam where you made the pin mark and position it against the center of the waistline, at the base of the bodice. Adjust the fold so the train is between ½” to ¾” (1.3 – 2 cm) off the floor.[6] X Research source
   • Pin the train to the waistline seam.
   • Lift the sides of the train off the floor ½” to ¾” (1.3 – 2 cm) and fold and pin the train along each side of the back seam.
   • To lift the remaining train off the floor, continue to fold and pin the train as necessary between the seams.
3. 3Make the ties. Undo all the pin-marking points you have made on the train and waistline of the dress. Sew a length of narrow grosgrain ribbon measuring 15” (38 cm) to the waistline of the dress, using the pin marks as a guide.[7] X Research source
   • The ribbon should fall between the lining of the skirt and the dress’s train.
   • Make sure to sew the ribbon securely into the waistline seam.
4. 4Make the loops. Cut 2 1/2“ (6.5 cm) of the ribbon before folding it in half and stitching the ribbon loop to the underside of the dress’s train. Make the loop stronger by reinforcing it with a small piece of interfacing, or by attaching the loop to the seam allowances of the dress.[8] X Research source
   • Loops should be attached ½” (1.3 cm) below each pin mark.
   • Repeat the same process for all other loops.
5. 5Bustle the dress. Attach each ribbon to the corresponding loop by inserting the ribbon into the loop and tying a double bow. Plump up the fabric to make the bustle look bigger and to provide more volume.[9] X Research source
   • The French bustle is great for dresses with lots of train decoration centered below the waist because the bustle won’t hide the designs.[10] X Research source
   • The French bustle is also ideal for dresses with long trains or that are made of heavier fabrics.

Adding an American Bustle or Overbustle

1. 1Measure the train. To add an overbustle, start by measuring the back seam of the dress’s train from the waistline seam to the floor and again from the edge of the train to the base of the dress.[11] X Research source
   • Mark the place between these two distances with a pin.
2. 2Pin the waistline seam. Lift the center back seam where you made the pin mark and position it so it is flush against the center of the waistline, at the base of the bodice. Adjust the positioning so the train is ½” – ¾” (1.3 – 2 cm) off the floor.[12] X Research source
   • Attach the train to the seam using a pin.
3. 3Fold and pin the train. Lift the dress’s train off the floor, and pin it so the sides of the train are positioned ½” to ¾” (1.3 – 2 cm) off the floor and secured to the sides of the dress’s back seam.[13] X Research source
   • Fold and pin the train to lift any remaining train off the floor.
   • If the train is too long or heavy, redistribute the already existing folds into two smaller folds.
   • When the folds are securely pinned, release the bustle and remove the pins.
4. 4Attach the buttons or hooks. In order to secure the dress on the day of the wedding, the bustle will need to be connected to the dress using either buttons or hooks. Sew these on wherever you made pin marks along the waistline.[14] X Research source
   • Make sure to stitch securely – you don’t want the bustle coming undone.
   • If the buttons or hooks need additional reinforcement, attach a small piece of interfacing under each one.
5. 5Make the button loops. Use strong thread to thread the needle, then knot the ends of the thread together. Place a small piece of interfacing on the topside of the dress’s train, wherever you made a pin marking denoting a button loop.[15] X Research source
   • Insert the needle at the pin, next to the seam-line, then pull it through the interfacing and train.
   • Make a small backstitch from the right side of the train. Pull the thread to make a loop reaching 1” – 2” (2.5 – 5 cm).
   • Place your fingers inside the loop and grasp the loop.
   • Pull the thread to tighten the first loop and create a second loop. Repeat this until you have a thread loop that’s big enough to fit the button or hook.
   • Use several back stitches to secure the thread to the underside of the dress.
6. 6Bustle the dress. Once the loops have been added to the dress, bustle the train by fastening the loops to the buttons or hooks. Adjust the folds of fabric on the train to create a fuller and more voluminous bustle.[16] X Research source
   • If you don’t like the look of the exposed buttons or hooks, you can hand-sew lace appliqués on top of the buttons or hooks to conceal them.
   • Be sure to stock up on safety pins. American bustles are not as strong as French bustles and there’s a chance that the bustle may break over the course of the evening.

Expert Q&A
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• QuestionWhy would you put a bustle on a gown?Margo WestMargo West is a Professional Tailor and the Owner of Margo West Bridal Alterations in Dallas, Texas. She is renowned for her expertise in bridal alterations, custom wedding gowns, wedding-related design, and pattern making. Her 44 years of bridal experience has earned her the prestigious WeddingWire Brides Choice Award, Couples Choice Award 2013-2019, and The Knot Best of Weddings 2018-2020. Margo was also featured in House of Diffa 2018 Jacket Collection and Modern Luxury Brides Magazine 2020. She will launch her new bridal gown collection for fall 2021.
  Professional TailorProfessional TailorExpert Answer
• QuestionHow do you make a bustle?Margo WestMargo West is a Professional Tailor and the Owner of Margo West Bridal Alterations in Dallas, Texas. She is renowned for her expertise in bridal alterations, custom wedding gowns, wedding-related design, and pattern making. Her 44 years of bridal experience has earned her the prestigious WeddingWire Brides Choice Award, Couples Choice Award 2013-2019, and The Knot Best of Weddings 2018-2020. Margo was also featured in House of Diffa 2018 Jacket Collection and Modern Luxury Brides Magazine 2020. She will launch her new bridal gown collection for fall 2021.
  Professional TailorProfessional TailorExpert Answer
• QuestionHow do you bustle a small train on a fitted formal with a slit down the left leg. The dress will be worn in a presentation of senior girls followed by a dance.Community AnswerThe best bustle for this dress would be the one-point overbustle.

Video

Tips

• If your Maid of Honor is concerned that they don’t know how to bustle your dress, bring them to meet with a seamstress who can instruct them.⧼thumbs_response⧽

Things You’ll Need

• Tape measure
• Straight pins
• Grosgrain ribbon
• Scissors
• Needle and thread

References

1. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NV44oQzSp0c
2. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NV44oQzSp0c
3. ↑ Margo West. Professional Tailor. Expert Interview. 7 December 2020.
4. ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NV44oQzSp0c
5. ↑ http://www.sewdeb.com/bustle2.html
6. ↑ http://www.sewdeb.com/bustle2.html
7. ↑ http://www.sewdeb.com/bustle2.html
8. ↑ http://www.sewdeb.com/bustle2.html
9. ↑ http://www.sewdeb.com/bustle2.html

About This Article

Bustling your own gown can be an easy way to cut the cost of your wedding. To add a 1-point overbustle to your wedding gown, sew a loop to the back of the dress and a button above it. Sew the loop halfway up the length of the dress using a secure knot. Then, sew the button 1 foot above the bride’s knees. Stitch it 4 times and make 2 knots to make sure it’s secure. Now you’ll be able to hook the loop over the button to lift the dress’s train off of the floor. This is the simplest and cheapest way to bustle your dress, but it isn’t recommended for heavier dresses. For more tips, including how to add a French bustle to your wedding gown, read on!

Reader Success Stories

• “My friend took her wedding dress to a dressmaker who did make a real mess of her dress, so I was looking up ways to try to fix it for her. And this has been a big help, thank you so much.”…” more